Lautoka, Fiji, on the island of Viti Levu, was our port of call for today. It's the second largest city in Fiji, and is the sugarcane king from the industry that put this place on the map. If memory serves us right, it was the world's desire for the sugar product that enticed people from India and China to come here for work in the plantations and factories. Years later when the demand decreased, many of the descendants of the Indians and Chinese never left, and became an important part of the society. From what we saw today, the Fujians are the minority, and the Indian and Chinese are half of the population.
There were some tours offered here today that included a day cruise on a catamaran to an island beach for $180 for 5½ hours. Tivua Island and a zipline excursion were both $180 for 4½ to 5½ hours. How about a thermal mudpool treatment? That ran $150 for 3½ hours. An essence and factory tour was $130 for 4 ½ hours, while a trip to Nadi was $90 for 3 ½ hours. A shuttle ride to downtown Lautoka was $10 per person. This shuttle used to be provided for free compliments of Jack's Department Store. No more.
The ship arrived early to the port of Lautoka, a very busy commercial port. There are many factories here such as the Sugar Mill and a wood chip facility. Big rig trucks were coming and going all day long. We were cleared after 8am by the local authorities and reminded that no food, fruit, sandwiches, or animal products and flowers were not allowed off of the ship. If anyone attempted to do so, there could be a significant fine. There was no mention of beverages, so we brought a bottle of water. No problem.
We left the ship by 10:30am when all of the tours had left. Several souvenir tents were set up at the end of the long pier. There was a wide array of island clothing and accessories – all good prices from what saw. The vendors were more than happy to take US dollars. In case you needed some small items in town, there was also a money changer on the pier. And of course, there were the massage ladies offering their services.
The walk to downtown was one we have done many times. Walking out of the busy port area, we followed the dusty sidewalk to the main drive. The big trucks were parked along the way, and when they drove past us, they really kicked up the fine dust on the street. Nice that we have complimentary laundry because our clothes would need to go there at the end of the day.
We got to town within 30 minutes. When the morning started, the skies were basically blue. It was much hotter than yesterday. However as the day advanced, the clouds began filling the sky, which helped keep the temperatures down. This whole area looked very dry to us, and we suspected they were due for some rain. It didn't happen today, so we got lucky.
This city is quite different from Suva, which is more British than anything. Here we felt like we had stepped back into the 1950's. The town was created to take care of the local workers so it is a mix of Fijian, Indian, and Chinese. The Indian holiday of Diwali or the festival of lights was in full swing. It also doubles as a reason for many sales. Last year we saw the sidewalks decorated with flowers made with a type of chalk and lined with small luminary candles. We did not see that today. Probably too dangerous to have lit candles burning.
We headed right for the marketplace which has a produce and fish market even bigger than we saw in Suva. Everyone greeted us with "bula" and were happy that we took photos of their products. We learned what jackfruit looks like, even when cut in half. It is full of large white seeds, which the vendor was collecting in a dish. Among the assortment of fruit and veggies, we saw other products like the coconut oil sold in small bottles. They also sold different types of kava roots, which is like an alcoholic drink. The basic roots are from a peppermint bush or tree, and in the past, were chewed by the natives to make a mash for fermentation. Christian missionaries taught them how to use pestles and mortars to grind the sinuous roots….much more sanitary. Having reluctantly participated in a few kava ceremonies, we recall the numbing effect the muddy-looking drink was on the lips. Sharing the beverage served in one large container was not the best idea, but that was the custom. For that reason, if a tour included this welcoming event, we passed on the tour as it is considered rude to say no thanks.
On one side of this huge market was a separated fish market. You went into a side door and the display was behind a glassed-in room. The tiled counters had what was left of the day's catch. A large variety of fish were laid out for sale. Among them were parrot fish, red snappers, barracuda, several others we did not recognize. Of course there were flies, but the fellows kept them off with big handheld fans. Before the day was over, all of the fish would be sold.
After getting lots of photos, we continued back to downtown and walked by numerous shops. Many of them sold the Indian saris and all of the trinkets that go with the dress. One store that most folks go to is Jack's, which is a department store, but also a good place for authentic Fijian articles. We purchased our first set of cannibal forks here. Yes, it really did happen in the far distant past, but it is not a factor these days. Or at least we think so.
There is a nice local park here by the name of Waterfront Park. Today there were many tents set up with locals selling even more clothing and purses and such. This is one place we feel the tourists can bargain for good deals. At the bottom of this park is the seawall. Located there is a hotel called Tanoa Waterfront. We looked around the front of the hotel, and did notice a restaurant along the side. But it appeared closed. Perhaps it is only for dinner service. We have never eaten lunch in this city. The only place we recognized was a McDonalds. Everything else was Indian and Chinese food with several bars in between the shops.
Staying on the waterfront, we cut back to the main road, avoiding the heavy traffic with the buses and trucks. We were back to the ship before 2pm, just in time to order a room service lunch. Everything came exactly as we ordered it, and the wait was only ½ hour. All aboard was 4:30pm, and we set sail shortly after that. By now it was really overcast and cloudy, so the sunset at 6:10pm was minimal. We watched it from the veranda as we sailed around the island on the way to tomorrow's port of Suvasuva. It was a good time to open the chilled bottle of sparkling wine we have had since day one. It was still quite warm outside, and the drink was most welcomed.
Dinner had a few favorites of breaded chicken tenders with a honey-mustard sauce. So good. The split pea soup was not anything like Dutch pea soup. It was thin and almost yellow in color with shreds of celeriac, carrots, and chives with bits of sausage. Traditional Dutch pea soup is way better we think. But the mains of spaghetti with two meatballs was perfect. A slice of garlic bread comes with it. Dessert was a strawberry cheesecake which we planned to share. Then Risman our waiter said he had brought a very frozen hot fudge sundae and would we like it. Twisting our arms, we said OK. He was right, it was much better tonight, so we ate them both.
One more day of "bula" greetings and we will be gone from Fiji.
Bill & Mary Ann
