Report #121 Monday April 29, 2024 Sea Day #2 Of 3 Enroute To Banjul, Gambia Overcast Skies 84 Degrees 76% Humidity Sea State: Low Swells 3mph Winds----Formal Dress

 

As the days roll by, we are seeing more and more of deep cleaning going on all around the ship.  Specifically, the brass is being polished, even where you cannot see it, the walls are being washed, and  all of the windows are spotless.  Just a guess on our part, but we think this will be in preparation for the CDC inspection when the ship arrives to Puerto Rico.  We understand that when a ship enters a US port, inspections can take place.  And on a long voyage such as this one, it is almost guaranteed we will be thoroughly inspected.    Even in the dining room, we have seen the head waiters using flashlights in all of the serving station drawers and in every corner under the tables and chairs.   Water and wine glasses are checking for spotting as are every knife, spoon and fork.  It's never too early to start this process as the days are getting fewer and fewer.  In order to keep their CDC scores high, this extra-duty scouring is a must. 

 

We had been invited to a kitchen tour this morning at 10:30am, but we missed it mainly because we simply forgot to put it on the calendar.    While on the Volendam last fall, we had the best kitchen tour ever, and doubt it could have been topped today.   With one exception, we spotted one gentleman getting out of the elevator with a flute of sparkling wine.  Another guest we know asked where that came from, and he said it was handed out after the kitchen tour.   Now that was a nice touch.  At the time we received the invite,  we had a public health questionnaire to complete stating we were not ill.  It came with a warning that if any questions were answered dishonestly, there may be serious health implications.  We never had to do this last fall, but it makes sense, because we feel there are many people with colds or something similar. 

 

Today was called International Dance Day.  We wonder who comes up with these things?  Anyway there were three dance classes, which happen every sea day we think.  One was for beginners, one for experienced dancers, and the last one was dancing with the Zuiderdam dancers.  Of course, the ballroom dancing is on the itinerary every day at 4pm. 

 

Kimberly's lecture on Banjul, The Gambia took place at 10am in the World Stage.  We watched it on TV later in the day to take notes, even though we were just there last year.  One thing we can say is that her pictures make the port city look a lot better than it actually is.  And that makes going out of the city look even better, thus selling more excursions. 

 

Captain Friso spoke at noon and repeated some of the same adverse conditions upon entering the approach to Banjul in a couple of days.   It was very difficult to hear his talk from the Seaview Pool speakers, but we think he said the way to the port was shallow and it may possibly be very windy.  We sure do not recall any problems the last two times we were here, but then the tides and winds may have been in our favor.   The weather today was still hot and humid with a slight breeze.  And according to the Captain, it will not change until we head towards Mindelo, Cape Verde and eventually trans- Atlantic.    So it is to be seen if we do make it to The Gambia.

 

This evening was a formal one, though in this heat and humidity,  we doubt people really felt like dressing up.  And it was "A Night in Hollywood", inviting the guests to gussy-up and dress the part for a night of red-carpet style fun.  Not sure what this is all about, but the fun would begin at 8pm in the Rolling Stone Lounge (right in the middle of our dinner).   And only the lounges, all four of them, would have entertainment and music.  The World Stage was showing the movie Elvis at 8pm, which we can always watch on the TV.  Actually, we already did on our last cruise in the fall.

 

Tomorrow will be another day at sea as the ship heads northwest towards another West African country.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report #120 Sunday April 28, 2024 Sea Day #1 Of 3 Enroute To Banjul, Gambia Overcast Skies 84 Degrees 76% Humidity Sea State: Low Swells 12mph Winds----Casual Dress

 

Seeing the digital scales set up in the elevator lobby of each passenger deck, we are reminded that this trip is drawing to an end soon.   How it went by so fast is beyond our comprehension.  Cards were distributed asking us how many pieces of luggage we would be shipping via Luggage Forward, and how many would we be taking off with us in Ft. Lauderdale.   We are hoping that all of our shipped luggage will be taken off and loaded directly into the waiting vans at the cruise terminal.  Otherwise, we will have to gather it all up, get it on dollies, and haul it through the customs checkpoint.  Last year, we did not have to do this, as we did not see our luggage until it arrived at our house.  With the final stop on this cruise being Puerto Rico, we will go through customs and immigrations there and not have to repeat the process upon landing in Florida.  But we will not know that for sure until we get closer to the final days.  

 

Today was still hot and steamy with high overcast and clouds.  The seas were quite smooth and there was a breeze, although it was a warm wind.  We are still finding that at 10am when a World Stage talk is going on, it is a good time to do some laps on the promenade deck.  Most folks are at the talk, and the deck is not crowded.  Currently there are three speakers keeping the folks informed on African colonization, carbon-neutral  trucking around Africa, and the end of the slave trade.  Lots to take in on one sea day.

 

While picking up some custom burgers at the Dive-In, we noticed that all of the tables and chairs had been moved aside.   Then we remembered that there was an Ice Cream Social at 3pm today held in the Lido Pool area.  Of course there is a section in the Lido Market just for ice cream, desserts, and sweets, but today they are beefing it up with cones, cups, and bowls with heaps of toppings.  We can say that neither of us has eaten an ice cream cone this whole entire trip.  We never seem to be in the right place at the right time and figured we don't need the extra calories. 

 

Yesterday while departing Takoradi, we happened to pass by that really unusual ship that did not look like a ship we have seen before.  Except it did look familiar and then we realized we had seen this ship while visiting Ghana last year.  On our way out of the harbor, we spotted the KPS Osman Khan – a power ship.  It is considered a special service floating power plant.  Its purpose is to deliver electricity to the power grid of Ghana supplying 470 MW generation to the grid.   It was re-built in South Korea by Samsung Shipbuilding in 2000 and was brought to Ghana by the Turkish government in 2016.  It is 100,330 gross tons and is 981 feet in length.  It can be powered with several types of fuel or natural gas.  Fascinating.

 

Captain Friso came on for his noon talk.  He seems to like to project a week ahead of where we are currently located.  He feels comfortable with the weather and sea conditions after we leave the last port of Africa in Cape Verde.   It looks like a smooth sailing, although the North Atlantic can be unpredictable.  Time will tell.  Even though the skies darkened, we did not get any rain late this afternoon.   One of our buddies said he spotted some dolphins early in the day, but we never did see any of them.  There were no flying fish either.  It sure give one a lonely feeling out here far off of the coast of West Africa.  

 

Both of us opted for the Club Orange special of Peruvian chicken for dinner.  It is about half of a chicken that is spiced well and roasted in the oven.   We also started with Caesar salads and a chicken appetizer and one tomato soup….really good.  We shared a small slice of carrot cake, which has not appeared very often on the menu.  Also very good.

 

Two more sea days to relax before we arrive in The Gambia, another unique part of the world.

 

Entertainment in the World Stage was a song and dance show by the Grand Voyage singers and dancers.  It was titled Simply Broadway.

 

Bill & Mary Ann 

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Report #119 Saturday April 27, 2024 Takoradi, Ghana Docked Starboard Side To Pier 8am-5pm Broken Clouds Very Hot 90 Degrees 68% Humidity 10mph Wind

 

The Zuiderdam arrived to the port of Takoradi, Ghana with the assistance of the pilot and two tugboats that all arrived late, according to Captain Friso.  We were docked starboard with two gangways set up shortly after 8am.  Seated at our window table in the Pinnacle Grill at breakfast, we had ringside seats to watch both tugs and the pilot boat in action.  While checking out the action from deck three, we noticed some birds flying high overhead.   Getting some close-ups, we decided they were the red kites seen in this part of Africa.  Also present were pied crows that mixed with the kites.  Both types of birds are migratory from Europe. 

 

Since we were here last year, we did remember the area well.  But first we'll tell you what the shore excursions were for today.    One 4 ¾ hour trip went to a cocoa farm village to learn the process from bean-to-chocolate products.  Did you know that cocoa is the number one export from Ghana – the second largest in the world? 

 

The next bus tour took folks to the "twin cities" to see the highlights of Takoradi and neighboring Sekundi 11 kilometers away.  Takoradi is the main port for imports and exports with the railway system and Market Circle.  Close by Sekondi is a fishing village where the local traditional fishing boats are built.  Refreshments would be served while watching a cultural show for 3 ¼ hours for $230. 

 

Kakum Rain Forest and canopy walkway (30 meters high) was 7 ¼  hours for $290 which included a lunch.   This national park is a place of herbal medicines where you might see elephants, monkeys, and birds like parrots and hornbills.  It's a 2 ½ hour drive each way and it was recommended to wear sturdy shoes and bring a good insect spray.

 

Village life and castles was 7 ¾  hours for $330 with a visit to a fishing village where fish is smoked.   Note:  if you are sensitive to smoke….don't do this tour.  This was a stop at a school  and two castles built in 1652 where slave dungeons existed.  It was a 90 minute ride each way.

 

A warning came with these tours saying that the local tour structure may provide an authentic experience.  However, don't be surprised if there are operational glitches cropping up.  And the folks are paying from $190 to $330?  Why so much….we do not know.

 

It may not come as a surprise that it was hot and humid today. Unforgiving.  We decided to leave the ship after 10am and take the complimentary shuttle to the city center.  It was a 5 km drive to downtown from the port, and no one was allowed to walk out of the port, nor would we want to since it was a very long and dusty way to the port gate.  Of course, we just missed the small shuttle, but we were next in line for the one that would come in 20 minutes.  At least we were first , but somehow a line of folks appeared from the side building and rudely cut some of us off.   An elderly lady questioned a man, and he simply ignored her and boarded first.  Takes all kinds we say. 

 

Now here's the funny thing that happened at the SG Bank drop-off stop.  When the folks looked around at this run-down center of town with hordes of local vendors and native shoppers, only a few of us got off of the bus.  The rest stayed on and went right back to the ship.  This would repeat itself the rest of the afternoon.  

 

Street after street had vendors selling fresh produce and fish that had been smoked.  Some fellows were selling fresh fish with flies all over them.  And yes, they did smell sitting in the hot sun.  All types of clothing, shoes, knock-off handbags were being sold in the center of the wide streets and along the crumbling sidewalks.  Typical housewares and luggage were there too.  The most colorful waxed batik fabrics  were sold from tiny shops.  A few pharmacies were scattered in the mix, but we did not see any restaurants. 

 

Taking photos discreetly was challenging as some locals objected even though great care was taken to keep the vendors out of the pictures, and take only the objects of interest.    Trying to negotiate for a pair of sandals led nowhere.  The young boy at this street stand did not understand English, nor did he know the US dollars we were offering.  He went for help.  A woman vendor suggested we go to a bank or ATM to get local Ghanaian cedi, since she did not take US dollars.   Nope, not going to do that, we thanked her anyway.  

 

After an hour of roaming the streets and dodging the cars and people, we headed back to the shuttle stop.  When the huge project of the new Market Circle is completed, all of these make-shift stalls and tables will move into the circle.  It will contain 2400 stalls, 33 restaurants, and a huge food court.  It is promised to be done by the fall of 2024.  From the looks of it now, it might take much longer than that. 

 

The shuttle did not leave until every seat was filled and another bus arrived.  Squashed like sardines, the ride was short and the air-conditioning worked well.   On the pier across from the ship was a very large craft market selling all types of souvenirs, unlike downtown that sold mainly everyday items.  One of us was interested in the Ghanaian jewelry made from recycled glass and sea glass.  It is called Krobo, a local art, but was hard to find a lot of it today.  We happened upon a nice lady who separated several from the pile.  We ended up buying three of them and a pair of earrings that matched them all.  Another 3 piece set of ceramic stones stood out at another table, so we got those too.  There were very few t-shirts for the guys – mostly pull-over African batik stiff shirts with the vibrant colors.  OK to wear here, but never at home.  Several crew members were coming over to buy stuff as well.  Many of the treasures we saw here like the wood-carved animals, bowls, woven baskets and masks  will be repeated in the port of Bangul, The Gambia.  It will be the last stop for African mementos and the prices should be just as good or better. 

 

It was oppressively hot by now and the wind was picking up the dusty sand that stuck to us all.  Good time to re-board the ship and cool off with ice cold sodas.  Lunch was a room service Cobb salad and two roast beef paninis.  These sandwiches are really smaller than they used to be, but knowing that, you can always order more.  We never do that, since the smaller portions work better in the long run.  Working on photos and researching info, it was time for sail away.  All aboard was 4:30pm, but our actual departure did not happen until after 6pm due to late buses coming back from tours.  Captain Friso said they were escorted by police, but then, we think that is the norm here anyway.  So much for unexpected glitches.  It worked out better, since we caught the sun setting while leaving the port.  

 

Today was the Dutch King's Day, and a chance to wear orange and go crazy for some.  We saw some orange wigs, hats, and orange bow ties, but mostly on the waiters and head waiters.  The menu was Dutch-related, except for our mains, which were the promised veal chops we had missed from yesterday's Club Orange menu.  Our waiter had promised to have the chefs serve them to us this evening, and they remembered.  Because it was a  special order, the chops came super- hot and extra good.  A few veggies and some cilantro rice made the meal complete.  But the best was yet to come….desserts of Boschebol, a Dutch chocolate éclair filled with the creamiest whipped cream in the center, drizzled with thick chocolate sauce.  We don't do dessert often, but when this appears, we each have one.  

 

The Dutch party continued at 8pm in the Crow's Nest with another party happening in the Rolling Stone Lounge.    Entertainment was a comedian named Mark Sampson telling a story about a family's 7 year African journey using waste vegetable oil to power their 10 ton lorry.  Now that is different for sure.

 

Looking forward to three sea days.  Even walking the promenade deck after dinner, we noticed it as still over 80 degrees. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann

342 Pictures

Report #118 Friday April 26, 2024 Sea Day #4 Of 4 Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Null Island Day And National Pretzel Day Clouds With Some Sun 85 Degrees 78% Humidity 12 mph Winds---Casual Dress

 

Besides being labeled "Pretzel Day", the big event was to be sailing towards Null Island, which really does not exist.  Go figure……  This is the so- called location where the latitude and longitude are at zero degrees or where the Equator and the Prime Meridian intersect.  Obviously, this occurs in the ocean where it cannot be marked, although there is (or was) a weather monitoring station called Soul Buoy that was here a few years ago.  It used to stand out of the water by 4 meters or over 12 feet, but is no longer seen.  We did this same exercise last year with the same results.  Now the humorous thing is that we watched many folks come outside to look for this buoy.  Captain Friso slowed the ship down around 2pm, and warned all of us that we may feel some abnormal vibrations in the ship caused by waves pounding the sides of the bow.  He was right.  Around 2:15pm, we heard him sound the horn, assuming he had stopped at the exact co-ordinates.  Those guests with GPS devices would be able to track the progress we think.  In addition, last year Captain Frank was able to center the ship at the exact intersection, putting us in 4 different zones so to speak. 

 

The bow was opened prior to the stopping of the ship, which must have been oppressively hot, especially with no breeze.   There was a Lido Poolside bit of fun where guests who were willing could have the chance to partake in the "Null Island Pool Jump".    This would be a celebration of becoming Emerald Shellbacks, of which we are already members.  Now we have two certificates each to prove it.  Captain Friso admitted that it took him 22 years at sea before he became an Emerald Shellback.  Perhaps there are two ways to look at this "adventure".  It could be viewed as a once-in-a-lifetime experience or much ado about nothing.  If nothing else, it was something different to do on another day at sea.  It was entertaining watching the ship spinning 360 degrees to achieve the 0/0 degree markings before we went back to the designated direction towards Ghana.  The good news was that we picked up more of a breeze again as it was blistering hot today.

 

The other news from Captain Friso was that Ghana has been having a heatwave with hot and humid temps over 90 degrees.  There is a 5% chance of thunderstorms as well.  Rain would probably be welcomed.  The swells would remain at 5 to 6 feet with winds the same as today.  Yesterday, the Captain mentioned that there were some windy conditions in the area of The Gambia, our next port.  He was worried that it may give them problems getting into the dock area.  Perhaps he was just thinking out loud, as he sometimes does.

 

So here is a bit of info on Ghana.  The capital of the country is Accra and the population is 28 million.  It is nick-named the African country for beginners.  Known as the west coast's golden child, Ghana has a historic culture and natural attractions.    The Europeans powers discovered that this country would be good for dominance of the trade industry of the Gold Coast and the Gulf of Guinea.  So the Portuguese, Dutch and Brits built coastal forts in the 17th century.  Or should we say, the Portuguese built them, then the Dutch and Brits took them over.   There are also nice beaches, diverse wildlife, and rich culture, not always good history, but so be it. 

 

The coastline where Takoradi is located is near forests of cocoa and rubber plantations.  During the right season, you can see turtles, humpback and sperm whales from the windswept Cape Three Points.  A town called Busua is near Takoradi and is a magnet for backpackers where they frequent bars, cafes, and the beaches.   Surfing is a big draw with schools for beginners.  On the negative side, this country is also known for the slave holding sites of the past – a horrifying history. 

 

Food and drink include fiery sauces on everything with oily soups being the norm.   It is served with a starchy rice, cassava, plantains and yams.  Chinese and Indian cuisine are popular in the restaurants.  These days, sushi and hamburgers are served everywhere.   The most common dish is a spicy stew of groundnut paste, ginger cooked with fish or meats.  Common ingredients of tomatoes, ginger, garlic, chili peppers, onions and palm nut are used in stews and soups.  Add rice, beans and fermented corn meal and you have a meal.

 

A few more tidbits were added with Kimberly's lecture on Ghana.  The port of call, Takoradi, has a sister city 11km away called Sekondi.  Between the two cities, the population is 250,000 people that speak some English, but many other dialects as well.  The local currency is 13.51 Ghanaian Cedi which equals $1 USD.  The most common credit card accepted is Visa, and the vendors and taxi drivers will take US dollars.  The largest industries are fishing, timber, cocoa, plywood, ship-building and crude oil.  And probably tourism.  

 

Besides taking our usual walks and a visit to the Seaview Pool, we did not do very much today.   It was just too darned hot, so we caught up on TV news, reading, and relaxing on the veranda drinking sodas.  Lunch turned out to be snacks and apples, because we wanted to be hungry for dinner in the Pinnacle Grill at 8pm. 

 

After a hidden sunset with some after color, we headed off to dinner.  For a change, most of the tables were full.  We understand there was an African dinner pop-up last night, which usually fills this venue better than a regular evening.  Perhaps there are folks like us that have complimentary dinners to use.  Anyway, we had our usual wedge salads with clothes line bacon served with the salads.   We like to cut it up and eat it on top of our salads.  Really good.  Our entrees were the rib eye steaks once again, but they kindly cut one in half, so our serving size was more manageable.  We added one large serving of skinny fries to share.  Dessert was ice cream and sorbet with some fresh berries.  Perfect.

 

What was also perfect was the fact the clocks went back one hour tonight.  We'll gladly take that.  On the World Stage was an instrumentalist, Gary Sletcher, with deep blues on the high seas – a journey from Africa to the music of New Orleans.   

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report #117 Thursday April 25, 2024 Sea Day #3 Of 4 Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Clouds With Some Sun 85 Degrees 75% Humidity 12 mph Winds---Casual Dress

 

Today was Anzac Day, similar to our Veteran's Day in the US we believe.  The officers, staff and crew of the Zuiderdam expressed their gratitude for all those that lost their lives in the service of their countries.  At 6:30am there was a remembrance service held at the Sea View Poolside.  Our buddy Greg, who is an Australian citizen, attended the ceremony and also had a reading for the small group of folks that represented the Commonwealth countries onboard right now. 

 

Well, we are still working on the details of our flight home that was adjusted back in January.  A message sent directly from the airline to us indicated our seats had been changed, and we were not even in the same row.    Michelle promised to check this out with the air/sea department in Seattle once the company opened for business.

 

It was surely going to be another warm and sticky day with temperatures in the 80's and the humidity at 75%.   The winds were of no help at 11mph.   Something we noticed yesterday was that the flying fish are back, jumping when the ship cuts through the waters.  It must be due to the fact that the temperature of the water equals the air temps.  Lucky for these flying fish there are no birds anywhere to be seen.  At least, not yet…..

 

Unfortunately we missed the display of the hundreds of blankets that were either knitted or crocheted at the Linus Project group that met every sea day for 2 hours in the morning.   We understand that this is the largest amount ever created.  Nice to see so many busy hands and happy hearts, as the saying goes.

 

We had our daily visit with Greg and he told us there was a Seafood Symphony in the Lido Market starting at 11:30am.  It did seem to be busy when we passed through the restaurant before they opened the curtains.  Then Kimberly came on the speakers and invited all seafood lovers to indulge in clams, mussels, scallops, and lobster among  other seafood items.   By the time we were on our way back to our room, we had to wiggle through the lines at every station….it was so crowded.  Many of the officers and staff were among those indulging as well. 

 

Michelle, our girl Friday, followed through with a phone call late this afternoon with the news that our original airline seats were still on file and all was correct with the flight.  Good news, as long as nothing changes in the meantime.  In a few days, we will need to start packing….yuck.  It used to be easy with no size or weight restrictions, but now we have a limit of 50# in an airline size piece of luggage.  We did bring less, but will be wishing we brought a lot less.  We will be sending 9 pieces of luggage back home, only keeping our hand carrys to go to the hotel for one night, then fly home Sunday the 12^th.  It will be here before we know it.

 

Dinner had the best chicken tenders with a honey mustard drizzle.  They went well on top of a Caesar salad.   The soup was split pea, full of diced ham and sausage.  One of us ordered the pork tenderloin without the bean smear (sounds awful – looked awful), and one of us had the every day lasagna.  Totally full, there was no room for dessert.  We had inquired as to when the veal chop might show up on the Club Orange menu.  Hazel, our head waiter, said they would have it tomorrow.   But we have reservations in the Pinnacle Grill tomorrow evening, so she said she will ask if they can serve it to us the following day.  Of course, that will be great…hope they remember.

 

There was an interesting activity at 8:30pm, which turned out to be star gazing on deck 10 in the Retreat area.  Astronomer Ted Blank, a guest speaker,  would conduct the session (weather permitting).    We did see a full moon after we left the dining room, so the skies were clear enough for this event to happen. 

 

Another option was going to see the Afro Poper Trio perform their classically trained songs in the World Stage. 

 

One more sea day, and we will be in Ghana….docked in the city of Takoradi to be precise.   We need to catch up on Kimberly's talk of this African country tomorrow on TV. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann

37 Pictures

Report #116 Wednesday April 24, 2024 Sea Day #2 Of 4 Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Clouds With Some Sun 75 Degrees 80% Humidity 16 mph Winds---Dressy Night

 

What a difference a day makes, as the song goes.  The temperature was at least 10 degrees warmer as we sail north towards the Equator once again.   We were wishing for it to warm up a little, but perhaps we wished too hard.   In the days to come, we will be missing some of those cooler days in Cape Town and Namibia.  

 

After breakfast, we stopped by our room to find 2 gifts had been left on the bed.  They were two duffel bags ( folded and zipped in an attached pouch) with a card saying a grand farewell gift for you.  The Captain and crew wish you many happy returns.   These are similar to the one gifted last year, but these are better because they have wheels.  They are too large for a carry-on piece of luggage for the airplane, but would work for a medium size suitcase.  Shiv mentioned that besides the duffels, we would be receiving the commemorative plates next week.  It will be interesting to see the ports written on them since the itinerary had changed so much. 

 

We decided today was a good one to do some future cruise bookings to get the extra credit for booking onboard.  So with what looked to be a very interesting lecture at 10am all about diamonds, smugglers, and spices of Namibia, perhaps many guests would attend that.  Wrong.  There was a line of folks that had signed the list, but the good thing was that there were two people doing the bookings…..Melanie and Justin.  The wait was about 40 minutes, but we were comfortable in the over-stuffed chairs across from their desks.  Since we knew exactly what we wanted to book, it did not take Justin long to put it together.  We specifically told him not to apply any future cruise credits to those cruises and he said fine.  We wanted it on the GWV for 2025.  Our travel agent received the bookings within an hour, and she warned us that he had applied the credit to the Alaska cruises.   She will be able to fix it before all is set in stone.  And thanks to her, she will continue to keep an eye out for any and all special deals that will pop up with these trips.   Like getting complimentary gratuities or HIA perks or better pricing.

 

Now that the days are sliding by rapidly, we thought we had better do a quick check with the airlines for our flight home.    Back in January, our HAL-booked air had been changed with times that did not work for us.  No one likes to get home at midnight.  Michelle, our girl Friday, had worked to get a better flight time and did just that.  The most important thing was to secure a straight-through flight with no stop-over on the way.  We had that confirmation in printing in January and thought all was correct.

 

Well…..paying a visit to the guest relations this morning, the confirmation I showed was not the same as the info on their computer.  Now they said the flight was leaving a 7am with a stop in Texas, followed by a later flight to SF getting us in after 10pm.  Where did that come from?  And why had no one informed us of this change?   They promised to contact Seattle and have the air/sea department investigate.  That put a lot of stress on a day that was meant for relaxing.  Finally, at 5pm, we got a call from Michelle who said the flight number had changed and the time out of Ft. Lauderdale was at 7am.  The stop in Texas was gone.   That much was good, however, looking closer at a message sent directly to us from the airline, we discovered our seats were not together.   The form that Michelle sent to our room had the correct seat numbers.   Crazy, huh?  We shall pay another visit to Michelle tomorrow and hope she can secure the original seats….aisle and middle in the same row.  The lesson here was not to wait until the last minute to double check what was originally correct.  Truthfully, we are learning not to trust anything anymore. 

 

Going to the Seaview Pool by noontime, we found several more passengers back there taking advantage of the warm sun.   It did not last too long,  since the clouds moved in and blocked he sun.  We spent the remainder of the day working online and catching up on the next couple of ports to write about.  There aren't many left….  Ghana, The Gambia, Cape Verde, and Puerto Rico.  Where has the time gone we all ask?

 

The theme for tonight's "dressy" dinner was "An Evening in Paris".  Why we don't know as France was never on the itinerary.   But it was an opportunity to add some French cuisine to the menu…namely escargots (not our favorite) and surf and turf.  Starters were the everyday shrimp cocktails, which we get five now and not four.  They are smaller, but still tasty.  Salads were one Caesar and one nicoise without the tuna.  Mains were Coq Au Vin and the everyday chicken alternate.  Both were just fine.  The little bananas are still good, so one of us ordered a sliced one.

 

Tomorrow will be the third day at sea, and we do expect it to warm up even more.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report #115 Tuesday April 23, 2024 Sea Day #1 Of 4 Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Clouds With Some Sun 66 Degrees 89% Humidity 22mph Winds---Casual Dress

 

We had a pleasant surprise while at breakfast this morning.   One of our waitresses spotted a whale blow in the distance and told all of us.  She was correct, as we also saw another large blow in the same area.  The whale never did surface, but we did some research and found that this is an area where both the right and humpback whales migrate.  Perhaps other types too.  The season begins in June and lasts until October we read.  They would be leaving the Antarctic and Southern Oceans to head north.  Of course, we kept a watch for more sightings the rest of the day but saw none. 

 

What one of us did see were some very large birds flying low over the water and wave crests.  They appeared to be the wandering albatrosses from the photos that were taken.  Even at a distance, you could see the 10 foot wingspan as they glided easily in the wind.  Some other types of sea birds were among them, but too far to identify.    That made two surprises today. 

 

Other than that, the morning began partly cloudy, but a bit warmer than yesterday.  If there was any fog, it was high and dissipated by late morning.  We did get in some "sun" time for over an hour at the Seaview Pool, until the clouds blocked the rays.  Greg stopped by for a chat as we compared what we have all done for the last couple of ports.  He had gone to the Seder Dinner which was held in one side of the Lido Market last night by reservation only.  We recall the days of the Empire chicken, which was enough to feed four people let alone one person.  He had saved half of it in his refrigerator to enjoy with today's lunch.  Good idea. 

 

It was time for a light lunch, which we had in our room with chicken Caesar salads.  The rest of the afternoon was catch-up time from yesterday's exploits.   It was such a fun day walking the lagoon, we enjoyed the photos as much as we did while being there.   The hike was good, but today was nice to be able to relax a bit.  We will have three more sea days to do that.

 

There are some new speakers onboard that continued to deliver lectures.  Presenter David spoke on the economics of empires, while Kate talked all about the ins and outs of the Congo.  In addition, there is a guest chef Bridgit who gave a demo in the Rolling Stones Lounge.  Another lecturer, Duncan, spoke all about a confederate warship, the CSS Alabama that raided South Africa.  

 

We had two events tonight.  One was an invite to a combined suite and President's Club cocktail party that was held in The Retreat on deck 11.  It was titled "Out of Africa" and began at 6:30pm.   Last year, this same event was held also while we were in Africa, but it was really crowded.  This year, we guess that only half of the guests attended and the other half were the Captain, some of his officers and many staff members.  Some of the guests bundled up, including one of us, as it had been chilly later in the day.  However up here, we did have the tents to stand under with the high top tables.  A full service bar was set up as well as wines served.  Some canapies were passed around, however, most of these guests had just come from the early seating dinner and passed on more food.    Nyron was the DJ and he played the soft music a notch or two down from last year.  Much better.  We had a nice visit with Kimberly, Shiv and Presty as well as some other guests we have know for ages. 

 

The next event wasn't really an event, but another dinner in the Pinnacle Grill at 8pm.  We were among the last to leave the party, but it worked out perfectly.   Our breakfast waitress was our dinner waitress.  She teased us that it seemed like she just saw us.  Technically that was 12 hours ago.   Anyway, we ordered our wedge salads with clothesline bacon.  To tell the truth, that would have been plenty for dinner.   But we did end of ordering the boneless ribeye steaks which were cooked to perfection.   We both agreed these steaks, although large,  had the best taste comparing them to the filet.  Adding a half potato, we still had trouble finishing the steaks.  So we asked for a "doggie bag" and our cute waitress Yulia, wrapped up the two pieces of meat in a foil container folded into a swan.   We shared a small slice of Key Lime pie…the smallest they could find, and found it was just enough.  No chocolates or coffee, we were happy and full campers tonight.   

 

Looking forward to another sea day, hoping the weather will warm up a little more.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

52 Pictures

Report #114 Monday April 22, 2024 Walvis Bay, Namibia 8am-6pm Docked Starboard Side To Pier Morning Fog Clearing To Sun Shine 85 Degrees 45% Humidity 25mph Winds ---Casual Dress

 

Walvis Bay was our port of call today, however upon arrival, we could not see it.  Pea soup fog was what we saw early this morning and the ship's horn was going off every three minutes.  It is a sound that makes us quite nervous especially in an area where ships wrecked centuries ago.  During breakfast, we were able to see the outline of the local tugboat assisting the ship being docked.  It would clear up later….we hoped.

 

Once a thriving whaling port, Walvis Bay survives on  shipping, fishing, and salt production.  It is said that they produce over 400,000 tons of salt a year.  It also houses the commercial ships as well as some cruise ships.  The city's lagoon is a haven for migratory birds like herons, pelicans, egrets, and especially the flamingoes as we would see later.   Seals, whales (in season), dolphins and turtles can be spotted in this lagoon. 

 

There was a huge tanker that was bunkering fuel to the ship and it stayed there all day.  Going out on our veranda was not an option because this ship was giving off some pretty stinky exhaust and fumes.   The vessel would stay there most all day.  And there were free shuttles that had drop-offs at the Waterfront and the Dunes Mall on the outskirts of town.  For some reason, the first stop at the Waterfront had been dropped. So it was a ride to the Mall only – a 10 minute drive. 

 

There are many things to see and do here and the ship's tours covered most all of them.  A 4 hour excursion called Go Local – the real Namibia was $200 and included a taste of local food.  A dolphin and seal safari was also 4 hours for $230, while a drive to Swapokmund for 5 hours was $270.  This German town is located 21 miles from Walvis Bay and is described as swanky with a fine urban scene.  Considered the adventure capital of Namibia, you can skydive, ride horses, or sandboard down a 300 meter high sand dune.   Of course, the tour does not take in any of these activities, but you can do it on your own.  A visit to the lagoon with a drive to the dunes for 7 ½ hours was $430, and Sandwich Harbor with a 4x4 sand dune ride with snacks and a drink was 4 ½ hours for $530.  A Namib Desert tour to see welwitschia plants, lizards, snakes and the dunes with a snack and beverage was 4 ½ hours for $600.  A similar trip to see the living desert was $650 for 4 ½ hours.  The most pricey tour was a flight over Sussusvlei for 4 ½ hours for $2400 per person.  We cannot figure out why these tours are so expensive.  Whether it is due to high insurance rates or the small number of tour guides and vehicles might drive the rates up.  We have our doubts that a lot of guests booked these tours today.  In fact some friends of ours decided to cancel their $600 desert drive after having second thoughts about it.  Can't say we blame them.  

 

On past cruises, we had taken the tour to Swakopmund with our travel group and host.  Back then it was reasonable and better-priced because our group was not affiliated with HAL tours at that time.  Anyway, there were two coaches of us that day, but halfway to the German town, one of the buses broke down.    This was in the middle of the desert with no services anywhere near to help.  The tour guide called a garage back in Walvis Bay, but being it was a Saturday, they had closed early for the weekend.  There was not another bus to come pick up the guests.  This was bad, since it was hot and they only had a limited amount of bottled water with them.  Our driver got word of the break down, and he was able to take some of the guests (mostly ladies) on our coach.  These people had to sit on the floor of the bus to hide from the police because the driver would have been fined.   Long story short…our bus went directly to the restaurant in Swapokmund where we had lunch.  The other guests never arrived.  In fact, the remaining guests that were stuck in the desert did not return to the ship until close to the all aboard time.  That was one excursion none of us will ever forget. 

 

Our plan for today was to make our way to the Walvis Bay Lagoon.  Leaving the ship by 10am, we walked to the gate where we found the nomadic group of vendors selling their African treasures along the sandy side of the main road.  Fewer than last year's group, they were selling wooden carvings of African animals, bowls, woven baskets, masks, and innumerable trinkets.  Some vendors even had wooden furniture like end tables to bargain for.  All of these items had to be turned in at the ship's entrance to be frozen for a day or more.   It does kill the unwanted pests like borers.

 

We passed through the center of the seated vendors" just looking" while avoiding the offers of tours.  "No thanks" seemed to work pretty good.   We continued down this street to the Protea by Marriott Hotel and the Waterfront  Restaurant.  We turned left here and headed to the lagoon.  What a treat we were in for.  From a distance, we could see a flock of hundreds of birds flying towards the lagoon where the tide was out.  It was a gigantic flock of greater flamingoes that migrate here every year.  The entire lagoon was full of the pink, white, and black flamingoes.  Many of them were juveniles.  They were much smaller and lighter in color than the adults who measure from 4 to 5 feet with the wing span and weigh up to 8 pounds.  It was really interesting watching their behavior as they fed on the krill and brine shrimp in the shallows of the lagoon. 

 

Joining them were many gulls such as the Cape gull and other than looked like silvers.   Two very large Dalmatian pelicans were hanging close to the stainless steel fish- cleaning tables along the wide walkway that lines the lagoon.   Bet the fishermen give them scraps.  Other smaller water birds we spotted were dunlins, ruddy turnstones, and pied avocets.   There may have been some cormorants, but they were far away in the deeper water.   Also along the sandy exposed banks were red splotches of stranded jellyfish.   They must not be good to eat since the scavenger birds stayed clear of them.   Local pigeons and gulls were drinking water from the sprinklers watering the grass.

 

The paved walkway was called the Esplanade and continued for a few miles to a sandy beach at the very end of the lagoon's peninsula.  This area is mostly residential with some of the nicest homes, bed and breakfast inns, and small bungalows with gardens.  We felt safe enough, but we have heard some scary stories from folks that actually lived here in Walvis Bay.  There were times in the past (and maybe today as well) that crime was a problem.  The locals had to hire security guards to keep watch when they left their garages in their cars and came back later.  We think for that reason, very few local people were out and about.  And today was Monday, and the kids would be in school.   Most of this esplanade was planted with grass and many palm trees.  Not too much else grows here in the way of trees, except maybe hardy ground covers and a few Norfolk Island pines.    They are very strict about keeping the paths clean of dog litter.  Many humorous signs are posted along the way.   

 

One nice feature are the benches, which are placed every 100 feet or so.  And because of them, we were able to walk so far while enjoying the antics of the flocks of both adult and juvenile groups of flamingoes.  We spent all of three hours at the lagoon before heading back for lunch.  It was a bird-lovers photographic opportunity for sure as hundreds of pictures were taken by us and many others. 

 

And to top off a good day, we had the best Hawaiian pizza so far this trip at a restaurant over the lagoon.    We had earned the draft beers of Hansa and Windhoek, both brewed in Namibia.   Wood-fired, the crust was allowed to rise just enough so there was a crispy ring around the edges.  We had asked for extra cheese, and they added more shredded cheddar, adding to the taste and texture.  Extra calories too, but who's counting at this point?   For dessert, we had spotted Mississippi Mud Pie on the menu, but sadly, they only had it for dinner.  We settled for a slice of a warm brownie with vanilla sauce drizzled with chocolate sauce and sprinkled with slivered almonds.  Glad we shared just one. 

 

Outside the restaurant was a vendor that made us promise to look at his treasures after lunch.  One of us settled on a thin woven blue beaded bracelet which will add to the two larger ones already owned from last year.  Passing the corner craft market, we saw many people buying like crazy from the vendors.  Did we mention that some of the native women were conservatively topless, if there is such a word for it?  Of course, they are there to attract some customers who will blatantly take pictures, upon which they will ask for money.  At the very least, the group was not using half-naked young girls to draw a crowd.  Last year, they even had tiny nursing babies there.   Sorry, but we don't approve of using the young or older ladies as props to garner money.  From what we saw, the passengers were having a fine time buying up a storm as the prices were right.

 

Back on the ship around 3pm, we attended the departure process with the customs and immigration folks in the Stuyvesant/Hudson Room on deck three.  It went quickly with several agents who scanned our passports and added the stamp inside.  Then the guest relations folks collected the passports, giving us receipts once again.  Our room keys were stickered with a green label this time, we assume indicating we had completed the process and could no longer leave the ship.  No more shopping for us….a good thing.

 

At the same time, the show in the World Stage was about to take place with the Bernhard Nordkamp Centre Children Choir Performance.   Kimberly held the start up for more guests to fill the room.  We had seen the entire group boarding the ship with their director and escorts in the morning, and the kids looked really excited to be here.   This was a last minute visit, since today the ship was supposed to be in Kusadasi, Turkey.  We stayed for most of the show, but a guest right next to us was having a coughing spell, and we decided we could safely watch this when it was repeated on the TV.  No way did we want to chance getting a cold or who knows what at this point of the trip….knock on wood.

 

At 4:45pm, Captain Friso said our departure from here was going to be delayed from 6pm to midnight, due to strong winds that had developed.  The exit from the harbor was narrow, so he figured he could easily make up the lost time in the next four days it will take to arrive to Ghana.  Kimberly followed up with a request for all guest to PLEASE turn in their passports.  To be fair, all aboard was 5:30pm, and the guests may still be bargaining for souvenirs outside the gate….having every right to do so.  Or some tours might be arriving late.  By the way, when the one couple that were singled out for the Cape Town immigration check, it turned out they did indeed complete the inspection, but the ship's scanning of their cards did not register.  We all think they deserve an apology, which may have occurred, but we did not hear it. 

 

We tried to keep dinner light with chicken noodle soup (not quite the same as it used to be) and  salads.  One empanada appetizer was good, as were the mains of chicken parmigiana and breaded lamb chops, a first time for those and really tasty.  No dessert tonight, just coffee… good and hot.  And our waiters did remind us of an hour back on the clocks this evening, always good news.

 

The entertainer was Gary Sletcher, an instrumentalist with the saxophone and guitar, singing music from the 60's to African jazz and pop. 

 

Looking forward to four full days at sea on the way to another African country of Ghana.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

336 Pictures

Report #113 Sunday April 21, 2024 Luderitz, Namibia 8am-5pm Anchored Port Side Facing The Town Morning Fog Clearing To Sun Shine 78 Degrees 50% Humidity 5mph Winds

 

The Zuiderdam entered the bay outside of the town of Lüderitz early this morning just as the sun was rising.  Today we would be at anchor and tender to shore.  Right after breakfast, our deck was called to attend the face-to-passport inspection held in the upper dining room.  All we needed was our room key, our passports, and the correct arrival forms filled out and signed.  It went quickly, and once again, while waiting in the line that passed through the photo shop, cookies and water were offered to all.  Tempting, but we just had a nice breakfast that included fresh strawberries probably from Cape Town.   Nice. 

 

The ship's tour offered today were a walking tour with the highlights of Lüderitz for 2 ½ hours for $80.  Two other excursions for $180 were a 2 hour tour to Kolmannskop, the deserted mining town.  The other one was a 3 ¾ hour boat ride to Halifax Island to see wildlife such as little penguins, cormorants, seals, and Heaviside dolphins.  Finally there was a ride to see the wild horses of Namibia for 4 hours and $350.   It was possible they might also see some gemsbok, springbok and ostriches if they came to the same waterhole.

 

We took a tour to the ghost town the first time we visited here.  It just so happened that we came a day after a once in one hundred year rainstorm.  Needless to say, it was a muddy mess.  However we do recall the story of when the 1908 railway workers happened upon some shining stones in the sand they were digging.  Turned out they were diamonds.  The town built up by Germans who built fancy homes, a hospital, ballroom, a power station, school, roads and a theater.  A sports hall was constructed along with a casino, butchery, bakery and an ice factory.  There were 300 adults and 40 kids, mostly German.  There were also 800 local Native Ovamba workers.  The production of the diamonds lasted 40 years, then it ceased to produce.  Eventually all of the people left, and the town was deserted….much the same as it can be seen today.   At the time we went there, the guide told the story and then we were left to explore on our own. 

 

We left the ship by 10:30am, right before open tenders were announced.  It was an easy tender ride with smooth waters.  Kimberly announced twice before we left that no wheelchairs no scooters could be taken ashore.   The ramp at the tender landing was too narrow and steep to accommodate them.  Bet there were some disappointed folks, since this was the first we heard about the gangway onshore. 

 

There were a handful of local tour guides that approached all of us as we got to the complex.  They were polite and not trying to pressure anyone.  A "no thanks" worked well here.  What we noticed right away was the fact that hardly any of the locals were out and about, due to the fact it was Sunday.  Most everything was closed, except the supermarket across the street which closed by noontime. 

 

Having just been here a year ago, we knew the direction to go.  At the roundabout, we turned left and headed uphill passing the many German-style buildings along the way.   Modern businesses such as the power company banks, and some restaurants have moved into these restored structures.    Our destination was Felsenkirche, the German Evangelical Lutheran Church.  Buit in 1912, this church was built on Diamond Hill giving it the name of Church on the Rocks.  It was opened to visitors and all that could make the hike up there were welcomed inside. 

 

Going around the side of this church, we looked over the cliff and discovered the hotel down below on the water.  We always thought this was a resort, but upon closer inspection, we saw it was the Nest Hotel.  Kimberly had not mentioned this hotel in her talk, so that may be a good thing.  All the more reason to find a way there for a good lunch venue. 

 

It was a long walk back downhill, where we took a left turn at the bottom.   We did find the paved road there, but it soon turned to gravel the closer we got to the hotel.  It appeared we were the only "cruise ship" people there at 11:45am.  We were led to the Penguin Restaurant on the lower level of the hotel.  When asked by the friendly waiter if we liked inside or outside dining, we naturally said outside in the patio please.   Seated at a table under an umbrella facing the bay, we ordered the local lager, Hansa draft beer which we had earned with the walk.  We have to mention it was warm in the sun, but we were saved by a fresh cool breeze coming off of the fog bank. 

 

We spent almost two leisurely hours enjoying the beer and food.  One of us ordered a club sandwich, l the other more adventurous person had the crusted calamari  rings.   Both entrees came with chips (French fries).  The calamari was reported to be the best he ever tasted, but we suspected that would be the case here.  The portions were most generous, but we did save some room for a shared dessert.   Having seen Malva pudding on Cape Town's menus, we decided to give the local African treat a try.  It consisted of a warm spongy spiced cake drenched in vanilla custard sauce.  Very good.  We complimented the waiter on the new dessert for us and for some reason, it never showed up on our bill.  The price may have been $2 USD or so, but we made it up with the tip.  The American Express did not work here, only Visa we believe.  So we paid in South African rand, which is almost identical in value to the Namibian dollar.   This meal with four 500 ml beers came to under $30 USD.  Still a good deal in our opinion. 

 

From here we walked back slowly, recommending the Penguin Restaurant to two gals coming from the ship like we did.  They thought it was closed to the public.  We are sure they were glad to go there as well.  Even though it was only 2pm, the town was deserted….looking the same as the ghost town in the hills.  There was one restaurant opened near the port called the Portuguese Fishery and was packed with cruise ship guests.   

 

A tender boat was waiting, so we passed by the few wooden carved souvenirs (we already have them all) and boarded the boat back.   It was a rougher ride this time, maybe because we think the driver was being trained by two other sailors.  We were back to our room by 3pm, where we stayed working on photos until sail away time.  Captain Friso came on the speakers around 4:30pm and sounded so pleased with today's warm and cool weather as well as the fog and sun.  He said we have 249 nautical miles to go to reach Walvis Bay tomorrow at a speed of 19 knots.  Although he expected high winds, he said the seas and swells will remain at 6 feet or so.  Sounds good to us. 

 

We agreed that the more times we come here, the more we like it as we discover more and more about the town as well as the best places to dine.

 

Within a short time after leaving the bay, we hit the fogbank and sailed north towards our next stop at Walvis Bay.  The Captain added that our stay there will be extended an hour or so later than planned.  Also fine with us.

 

Dinnertime found a nice small appetizer of sesame chicken with the good sweet and sour sauce.  Caesar salads again followed by delicious grilled pork chops with apple chutney and mashed potatoes for one of us and rice for the other.    We are not fans of kale or quinoa, so substitutes like potatoes and rice worked well for us. Our waiters are so good at getting everything right even though we add and subtract many sides. 

 

There was a show tonight with a local vocal group called the Afro Popera Trio.  A mix of opera, and Neopolitan songs (sounds like ice cream to us) was guaranteed to please everyone. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann

325 Pictures

Report #112 Saturday April 20, 2024 Sea Day Enroute To Luderitz, Namibia Overcast Skies 59 Degrees 90% Humidity 9mph Winds Sea State: Flat Cooler----Casual Dress

 

This morning began as a dismal day outside and remained that way all day long.  We barely saw the sun which was covered with a low-lying overcast and high clouds.   So it was a good day to work on photos and reports.  Also a good time to pay a visit to the Luggage Forward rep who joined the ship on the 18^th.    Her times were from 9 to 12pm and again in the afternoon for two hours.  What we failed to notice was that there was a sign-up sheet for appointments.   Anyway, one of us went down to deck  one and inquired about seeing the rep, who had already begun her work with assigned guests.  A fellow at guest relations suggested to wait and see if the next appointment guest showed up.  If they were running late, I could slip in and see her.  And it worked.  The man who was next only had questions, so I was given the thumbs up to go ahead and see her. 

 

Before we left home, we had already paid for 4 pieces of luggage and received 4 pieces complimentary.  We just needed to add one more bag, the one we had brought to Ft. Lauderdale for our three- night stay.  All we want to bring home are hand carrys on the airplane.    The delivery back to our home is about a week.  By the way, the extra regular duffel bag that will weigh 50 pounds cost $159.   In the "old" days, the charge would have gone directly to our onboard account, using some of the non-cashable credit.  Not anymore.  Now the charge goes directly to the credit card we have on file.    Anyway, that job was done.

 

The other job we had was filling out the arrival and departure forms for Namibia where we will have two stops.  It is one African country that we will not need visas.  We will need to bring the arrival forms with us to the inspection tomorrow morning.  Another job done.

 

Here's a bit of info on the country of Namibia.  The population is 2.4 million people that speak 30 different languages, although English is the official language.  The capital is Windhoek, which is also the name of the local beer.   The names like the Skeleton Coast, Sossusvlei, and Sandwich Harbor and a never-ending deset pf the Kalahari sand dunes are all part of Namibia.  The towns of Luderitz and Swakopmund are settlements created from colonial times when Europeans were on the move from oppression in their homelands.  The majority of settlers came from Germany.

 

The part of Namibia we will not see are Etosha National Park where lions, rhinos, and zebras can be seen at a single waterhole.  It is considered one of the best places on the planet for watching wildlife.   Sossusvlei is an area that has been included in an overland adventure on the regular African itinerary.  With this visit being last minute, we assume arrangements did not work out with the HAL folks.  It is an astounding place of towering sand dunes that originated in the Kalahari Desert millions of years ago. 

 

The Skeleton Coast  is a treacherous stretch of shoreline that has claimed many ships from the distant past .  A ghostly graveyard of shipwrecks have remained here for decades if not centuries.  One thing for sure, this country is far different from where we just came from in South Africa.  We doubt there is another city that can compare to Cape Town.  

 

What kind of food is the favorite of the Namib people?  There are a few staples such as oshifima, a dough-like paste made from millet.  It is served with a stew of meat or vegetables.  Another dish  is called oshiwambo, a tasty combo of spinach and beef.  Sounds a lot like New Joe's Special, a San Francisco treat.  Mealie pap is a basic porridge.  In typical restaurants, you may not find these favorites on a menu, but you will see a more European type cuisine.  There is an abundance of fish items and fried food joints.  In the German settlements, you can expect sausages and sauerkraut.  Locally brewed beers are most popular with Windhoek Lager being number one.

 

Kimberly gave her lecture on both Luderitz and Walvis Bay to prepare us for the next two days.  Then at 1 to 3pm, there was a silent auction for the Bernhard Nordkamp Centre in Namibia.  People were invited to bid on works of art from fellow guests, specialty dinners, navigation maps, and much more.   This children's center offers kids safety, food, education, and sports activities.  100% of all proceeds will go to this foundation and will be presented to their director on April 22^nd before leaving Walvis Bay.    A matinee performance by the kids will happen in the World Stage that afternoon.  When the world cruise comes this way, this same activity happens and has been a huge success.

 

We took a few walks on the promenade deck…almost alone except for our buddy Martha.  She is among the few that is not afraid of cold weather, and like us, takes frequent walks.  Even the Seaview Pool had few guests.  It was not that bad outside, so we filled up two cups of hot chocolate, and sat back there until noon time.  Lunch was Dive-In, followed by dinner with tasty spring rolls, Caesar salads, and one main of crispy Panko-fried shrimp and one entrée of prime rib, which really looked more like roast beef.  No desserts for either of us.  With about 20 days left of this trip, we need to begin cutting back on the size of our meals to get back to normal when we get home.  Not going to be easy.

 

A concert pianist was or entertainer this evening.  His name is Elio Rojas and promised to take folks on a  musical journey of great composers , songs, and pianists that influenced him. 

 

Looking forward to another country in Africa tomorrow.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

No Pictures

Report #111 Friday April 19, 2024 Day #3 Of 3.... Cape Town, South Africa Sailaway At 10pm Enroute To Luderitz, Namibia Foggy With Afternoon Sun 75 Degrees Slight Wind---Casual Dress

 

Day three in Cape Town began mostly clear, but that did not last long.  The fog moved in suddenly and did not dissipate until 10am.  Friends of ours had bought tickets to go up Table Mountain this morning, but seeing the fog come in during our 7:30am breakfast, they changed their minds and turned their tickets back.  Too bad since it did clear up by the time they would have gotten to the top.  

 

We kept busy keeping up with yesterday's photos until around 11am when we finally left the ship.  We were going to walk to the V & A Waterfront, but decided we would take the shuttle instead since it was there and ready to leave.    We could always walk back later.    When we got off of the bus, we noticed many people were on the boardwalk that lines Granger Bay.  Of course we went there right away to see pods of dolphins feeding in the water very near to the rocky walls.  How good was that?  Going to the railing, we must have stayed for at least ½ hour while sight-seeing boats and jet-ski people came to get up close and personal with the jumping dolphins.   This would have been the perfect time to have the dependable and fast camera, but these days we seldom take it off of the ship while in port.   Not only does it attract too much attention, it is heavy.  So we did take many photos of the pods as they fed and cavorted in hopes a few of the shots will come out good.   The weather was so good by then, we hated to leave the deck as it was warm and comfortable. 

 

We walked through the mall to get to the opposite end where the Victorian Basin is located.  The harbor front here is full of attractions and exciting activities.  Some of those include booking a ferry ride to Robben Island for a half day tour to see where Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years.  There is a museum to learn about his story there.  Besides boat rides, there are helicopters that will take you to see the peninsula and winelands.  Two Oceans Aquarium is nearby where you can see the marine life in both the Indian and Atlantic Oceans.  And there's always the Cape Wheel where you can have a 360 degree view of the city all from over 120 feet in the air.   Most of these activities take a lot of time, so today it was simply a walk-by.

 

There are 22 historic landmarks that include The Clock Tower, a reminder of the area's seafaring history.  Nobel Square has statues that are a tribute to South Africa's four Nobel Peace Prize laureates.  Tavern of the Seas is a story-telling experience that has an hour long tour with colorful characters.  Then when you get hungry, you can head for the City Farm market for locally grown produce, flowers, and ready-to-eat meals.  The Watershed is a remodeled old shed turned into 150 stalls of African art, crafts, fashion, and jewelry.  It is a place for homewares, crafters, and artisans.  And that is just a sampling of what there is to see and do.  We did discover one two story store that sold the most unusual artistic design  made from discarded parts and pieces of metal and wood.  We did take the time to see most of these sights as well as visit the Watershed which had the most interesting items for sale.   One of us was searching for a pair of matching African beaded earrings to match a bracelet from the safari camp we went to last year.   With all of the displays and aisle stands in this venue, we found nothing even close.  Oh well, there are more African countries to come, and many chances to locate the earrings.

 

By 1pm we had worked up an appetite and decided to try another pizzeria recommended by friends this morning.  The name was Primi Piatti Wharf where we got window seats facing the Granger Bay.  From here we could see that the dolphins were still feeding there.    Today we had one Castle Lite draft beer and one Stella draft.  Both 500 ml. or large.  Our choice of pizza was Hawaiian and it was just as good as yesterday's.  The crust might have been better today.  Desserts were one chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream – the soft type.  And the other dessert was a Pedro amarula parfait with more ice cream on the top.  They were equally good.  The bill was just a tad over $20 with a tip in there as well.  How they keep their restaurant cuisine so reasonable is beyond us.

 

After relaxing for over an hour, we decided to check out the supermarket on the garage level.  It was Woolworth's and was a very nice market.  We were looking for some familiar tortilla chips or potato chips, but their brands were not ones we liked or recognized.  We do have access to the ships onboard, so we bought nothing.  We left the mall by 3pm and took the bus back instead of walking figuring we had walked more than expected just touring the outside areas.

 

Back on the ship, we had certificates waiting for us for rounding the Cape Of Good Hope.  Too bad we were not able to see it through the dense fog a few days ago.  We can add these to the rest of the milestones we have conquered on this trip.   Also there was a reminder that we would have to go through a mandatory immigration inspection in the terminal beginning at 5pm.  We were called by deck which was a great idea.  In the past, they let anyone line up and it was a nightmare with a line down the pier.  Deck six was called off after 6pm, and we did have a line, but it moved quickly.  Our room keys were scanned, then we proceeded to an agent who scanned our passports and stamped them.  The passports were not collected this time.  Then our room keys were stickered to show we had completed the inspection.  From there we went back onboard, since we would not be allowed to go anywhere past the terminal now.  By 6:45pm, Kimberly announced that over 200 guests and crew still needed to do this inspection and they better hurry up.  By the way, if anyone had made big purchases while in South Africa, they could apply for a refund on the VAT or value added tax.  It would be applied to your credit card with the correct documents.

 

Captain Friso came on the speakers with a 6:30pm talk.  He announced tht due to the possibility of the fog returning early this evening, he wished to leave after 9pm and not 11pm as originally planned.   He feared a sudden fog bank could close the port and we would be stuck.  Unfortunately there was a special local show with the South African Choir, a group of kids, singing in the World Stage.  There would be time for one performance at 7:30pm only.   We do hope someone in the tech department was able to film it to put it on TV tomorrow. 

 

We were just eating our salads at dinnertime when Kimberly announced that one couple had not seen the officials yet and if they did not appear soon, they would face a possible fine.  How they missed the afternoon of announcements and a letter that had been sent to all of us, we sure don't know.   They must have showed up, since we did leave the port around 9:30pm.   Dinner was good with a starter of tiny pork meatballs in an aioli sauce, followed by mains of beef brisket with mashed potatoes, carrots and broccoli.  Nothing fancy, just good old comfort food….good and hot.  A  ½ of a sliced banana with warm fudge sauce was just enough for one dessert.  And one coffee as usual.  The dining room guests emptied out of the room early since three days of Cape Town did us all in we think.  Everyone that has spent any time here knows that it is as good as it gets as far as being in a beautiful city and took advantage of that fact by seeing everything they could in three days.  

 

Looking forward to one sea day, then two stops in Namibia….far different from Cape Town for sure. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann 

171 Pictures

Report #110 Thursday April 18, 2024 Day #2 Of 3 In Cape Town, South Africa Docked Port Side To Pier Overnight Till 11pm On April 19, 2024 Fog Clearing To Sunny Skies 68 Degrees--Dressy Night

Looking out the window early this morning, we could not see a thing beyond the railing.  Yep, the fog had come in thicker than yesterday.  You would never know that Table Mountain or Signal Hill were there, let alone the city towers.  And the ship had not moved to the closer berth at 6am as expected.  Our guess is that the port had shut down again, and perhaps the Virgin cruise ship never left the slip at berth E.  By 10am, the fog thinned out and we coud see the mountains again. 

 

It happened to be a special day for one of us…another birthday to celebrate.  There was a Happy Birthday note on our door, compliments of the folks at Guest Services.  Also a blue balloon was taped on the mail slot. 

 

After breakfast, there were more surprises in our room such as a four-tiered towel and colored napkin cake, made by our clever room stewards Putu and Dedi.  Along with several cards, there was a gift from Shiv, our Head of Housekeeping which was much appreciated.  Arriving next was a decorated chocolate cupcake and a card from Captain Friso.  As if this was not enough, later in the day, two small gifts were delivered…..one from the Technical Team and the other from the Nautical Team.  If you all recall, these were gifts from the first birthday back in January.  The tech team sent a hand-made plaque with Happy Birthday on it, and the nautical team sent a woven black bracelet and the noon's ship's coordinates of Latitude 33 degrees 55' S and Longitude 018degrees and 26' E.  The nautical team sent a message saying may your year ahead be filled with exciting adventures, smooth seas, and thrilling discoveries.  And the tech team said may your day be as smooth as our engines, as thrilling as our propellers, and as unforgettable as the open sea.  Here's to setting sail on another incredible year.  Yes, the beginning of another year was off to a good start.  Thanks to all. 

 

At 9:30am there was a different type of ship drill.  This was a test of the room speakers as well as the veranda speakers.  The TV feed was stopped for one full hour as music was filtered through all of the ship's speakers.  It was soft music that was rather pleasant as we caught up on some computer work and reports.  Our room steward came and checked to see if our speakers were all working.  We thanked him and Dedi for doing such a great job with the "towel cake".

 

It was no sense going off of the ship too early since the V & A Marketplace would not open until later.  We left the ship around 10:30am and caught a shuttle which was running on the half hour.  In fact, today there were several shuttles, not just two.  They were nice and roomy too.  The ride to the mall complex took perhaps 15 minutes.  The V & A Marketplace is one of the city's biggest attractions.  There are 500 retail stores, 80 eateries, 22 heritage sights, a food market, and live entertainment.  Some of the shops on the outside of the mall are the Watershed, where arts, crafts, and African clothing are plentiful.  From this complex, you can access the ferry to Robben Island where Mandela spent 18 years incarcerated.  Or you can visit the Aquarium for 235 rand or make a visit to the museum for 250 rand.  The Flywheel was 250 rand as well and was running all day. 

 

We have been to this complex several times over the years, but every time we visit, it is an easy place to get lost.  This time we went to the info desk and got a nice printout of the two levels of the mall.  There are five entrances on the ground level and all head in different directions.  One of us is still trying hard to find a replacement pair of black sandals to wear at dinnertime.  It has become almost impossible task to find such a simple item.   We did look at just about every shoe shop and found nothing that would work.  If you cannot find it here, you'll never find it anywhere.  So we might as well wait until we go home and shop locally.  Or online. 

 

Honestly, we are not huge fans of malls, but there was a reward at the end of the tunnel.  And that was lunch.  Doing some research, we located a wood-fired pizza restaurant right here in the mall.  It was located on level two and the name was Col'Cacchio.  We did inquire first about what type of credit cards they accepted.  Am Ex was one of them.  If not, we would go to a money changer and buy some rand, which we did anyway before we left. 

 

Arriving at 12:30pm, we were lucky to get a nice patio table for two on the railing overlooking the bay beyond the parking lot.  We could hear several foghorns sounding from many ships that were still buried in the pea soup fog offshore.   And here we were, sitting in the sun which was so nice.  We ordered two Castle light draft beers to begin, and then put together a cheesy Margherita pizza with toppings of pepperoni, mushrooms, and onions.  Minced fresh jalapeno peppers, garlic, and extra cheese were added to our table.  And it did add some heat to the pizza.   Wood-fired makes all the difference between a good pizza or a fantastic one.  Today's pizza was close to perfect.  Afterwards, we ordered two desserts.  One was a warm brownie with vanilla ice cream, and the second one was a caramel sauced plates of three crepes sprinkled with slivered almonds.   We shared and liked both of them equally.  Now the good part.  With three large beers, pizza, and dessert, the bill came to a little under $30 USD and that was with an extra tip.  Unbelievable, but nice.

 

It was close to 3pm, so we decided to head back to the ship.  We could save the rest of this complex for tomorrow.  We wondered if the ship had moved in the time we were gone.  Both of us guessed "no".  And we were correct.  Captain Friso came on the speakers and said that he would move the ship when the Virgin Resilient Lady leaves the harbor.  He moved the Zuiderdam by 5:15pm and docked at Berth E by 5:45pm.  The same seal from yesterday, we assume, swam around the azipod section of the aft while we pushed away from the pier.   The gangway was set up, and many guests who had been waiting at this pier came back onboard.   This location will work better for us because we do not need to depend on taking the shuttles.  We can walk since it is a safe place these days. 

 

Directly across from our veranda was the Cape Town Cruise Terminal.  On the second level of the building was a restaurant by the name of Beluga Wine Restaurant where many folks were watching the ship being docked.  Some of the guests were people we know that like this venue.  It is an open-air restaurant, and we could still smell the aroma of something foul in the air.  We had noticed the smell ever since we had docked two days ago and discovered the culprit was the cargo of a commercial ship nearby.  It sure smelled like dried fish, which eventually permeated the ship via the gangway.   It could also be a type of fertilizer too.  Whatever the source,  we will not be free of it until we leave late tonight unfortunately. 

 

Dinnertime arrived and this evening was a "dressy" one.  Why?  Because it was the anniversary of HAL's 151^st Anniversary.  Compared to last year's extravaganza, it was low-key this time.  Most folks did dress for the occasion, but many still showed up in t-shirts and jeans.  Oh well, it is a port day and it would have been a casual night any other time.  The menu had several different choices, but we had the basic shrimp cocktails, salads and the rack of lamb, which was excellent.  We had hoped that the birthday boy had escaped the song and cake, but we were wrong.  The waiters gathered and sang a loud song and then served a large multi-layered cake smothered with whipped cream.  We asked for a small slice, then donated the rest to our waiters.  It was a nice and very sweet way to end the special day. 

 

One more full day in Cape Town, and we will be on our way to Namibia.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

272 Pictures