The Zuiderdam arrived to the bay outside of Maputo, Mozambique early this morning, but had to wait for the pilot who was running late. We ended up docking shortly after 8am, starboard side to the pier. We had the much better view by not looking at the dilapidated pier and nearby buildings. The skies were very overcast and it sure felt like rain. Captain Friso mentioned that heavy rains had been falling here two days ago, so the forecast today was for sun and blue skies. Eventually the clouds parted and it warmed up to the high 70's. It was surprisingly comfortable and far less humid. And no rain all day.
After breakfast we went out on deck three to watch the anxious groups of folks going overland on safaris. Some of those tours were Lukimbi Safari Lodge for 4 nights, five days for $6839 per person. A longer tour for 5 nights and 6 days went to Kruger Shalati and the Train Lodge for $5900 per person. A very fun one that we have done was Victoria Falls, Botswana and Chobe for 4 nights and 5 days was $6200 per person. These tours were offered shortly after the itinerary changed, and they were sold out the same day. Anyway, we heard that about 71 guests took these overlands. More will go off in Durban.
Here are a few facts about this country in Africa. Mozambique has a population of 25.3 million people that speak mostly Portuguese and some English. The capital is Maputo, our port of call today. Mozambique is a country of beaches, swaying palms, and unique traditions and culture. But it is also a third world country, where you have the very wealthy and the very poor. The city itself has a mix of Mediterranean-style architecture with wide avenues lined with jacarandas and flame trees. The city has a population of 1.1 million folks.
There was a civil war in 1992 and ever since the economy has grown quickly. Their money is called Mozambique Metical and as of today, the rate was 64.16 to the US $1. Not all credit cards are accepted. The one that is widely used is Visa. Forget the Am Ex. It is customary to include a 10% tip. And taxis can be tricky as some are metered, and some are not. They accept cash only. And they do take the US dollars just about everywhere.
During her talk, Kimberly warned us of possible pickpockets at the bus line outside the Central Railway Station. One of the cruise ships that was here recently had some problems with street crime. In our opinion, this is not the place to go off walking on your own. We used to do it, but these days are different. This is also a country that believe in spirit mediums, diviners, and witch doctors with animist beliefs. This group is an important part of society as much as regular doctors we read.
Their food leans more towards the Portuguese cuisine, with piri-piri, a chili pepper spice. Coconut milk is in everything as well as served fresh. A staple called xima or upshwa is a starch made from corn or cassava flour. It is served with beans, veggies, or fish. Grilled chicken is cheap and easy to find served with chips or rice. Matapa is stuffed cassava leaves with peanut sauce and prawns.
Other shorter excursions were offered today such as Maputo city and sun with lunch for $220 and 5 ½ hours. Discover Maputo was 5 hours for $180, while a taste of Maputo was 2 ½ hours for $140. Maputo sights was 3 hours for $100 and a walk though Maputo was 2 ½ hours for $60.
One good thing was that we had complimentary shuttles to the Feima Market, a 3 mile ride from the pier. We left the ship about halfway through the crew safety drill around 10am. It was quite a long walk from the gangway to the terminal building, which was nothing more than a large pass-through shopping opportunity. There was mostly art work, waxed fabrics, some clothing and trinkets. On our way into this building, we passed by a lady and her husband who were already on their way back to the ship with one of the vendors on their heels. They had admired a painting, and the vendor chased them outside trying to persuade them to buy it. We guessed they had changed their minds, and ended up running back to the ship at a fast rate. We would have to remember this when we come back and not touch or point to anything we were not interested in buying.
There were four small buses running every ½ hour to the Feima Market. The drive could take up to 20 minutes if there was heavy traffic. This morning, it took maybe 15 minutes. This market is located in the fairgrounds and is quite large. It was not a food market, but more arts and crafts. There were dozens of woven bowls and even more handbags made with the heavy batik prints. Paintings were hanging on the fencing – one stall after another with similar scenes. One of our buddies said she bought one a few years ago, and it cost her plenty to have it framed. There were all sorts of clever trinkets, all hand made here.
We did negotiate a price for three sets of African earrings made with wood and batik fabric. We spent as much time browsing as we did chatting with people we knew. One happened to be Christel who was out and about on her own. Having had the job of Guest Relations Manager for many years, she is loving the freedom she has now that she is a wife onboard. She was all excited about going as an escort on HAL's overland from Durban to Victoria Falls, Chobe, and Botswana. A first time for her, she will enjoy every minute. We know we did when we went there in 2009. Too bad husband Henk cannot go as well. Maybe when he retires…..
We crossed paths with Greg and his tablemates also exploring the marketplace. Ginni was in "shopper's heaven", so the group was there to stay for a while. Two of the fellows went for beer at the central café, while the other two roamed around trying to recall where Ginni saw some trinkets she wanted. Truthfully, most all of the stalls looked identical. Greg had mentioned a fabulous hotel near this market, and knowing us well, he suggested we make a visit there. Martha had also told us she and Bob had eaten lunch there a few years ago. After thoroughly walking the market, we wandered down the side street to the Polana Serena Hotel, a blast from the past, much like Raffles in Singapore. Doing some research online, we figured this was the only place we would try for lunch, even though an HAL tour group was stopping there for a buffet lunch.
And we were pleasantly surprised to see such a nice colonial hotel as we were welcomed into the lobby by a doorman. Passing through the marble-clad lobby, we entered the garden area with a stunning view of the coastline. Their spacious swimming pool was right in the center of the garden. We did walk to the wall where we could look down and see the terraced rooftops of the high-end part of town. The more we thought about it, we realized we could have been here briefly while on a tour many years ago. We noticed that it appeared there was a wedding pending sometime today. Turned out it was right after noon time.
Following the signs and Martha's directions, we located the patio of the garden restaurant Aquarius. It was almost hidden to the left of the hotel looking from the garden and water side. We asked the wait staff if they took credit cards, and they said yes, but not American Express. Then we added would they accept US dollars and the answer was yes. This was good news, so we took a seat in a corner, and noticed Bob and Martha were already there in the other corner. Eventually all of the tables filled with guests.
We ordered two local draft beers called Mac Mahan and one cheeseburger with fries to share. The beer was really good and ice cold as well. It was plenty, but we did add a dessert of three custards and a brownie. Sitting and taking in the view was the best part. By the time we decided to move on, the wedding party had arrived and were congregating under the pergola that faced the ocean. What a stunning scene with all of the ladies and bride dressed fancy for the occasion. There were white-covered chairs assembled under the pergola so we suspected the ceremony would take place there. Then we saw two waiters bringing a three-layer wedding cake down the stairs towards the pool. We noticed the table was tipping, then we saw a chunk of frosted cake with a decoration fall off the top. Oh no….none of the wedding party had seen it, and the hotel staff quickly picked it up. How they hid the missing piece was a mystery to us. Anyway, it was a wonderful place to visit and enjoy a 5 star meal. The ship's tour group was just arriving when we left, and they were directed to the buffet which was served inside one of the hotel restaurants.
It was a short walk up the side street where we joined a waiting shuttle. There were two seats left, but they were in the front of the van. This is where we realized having long legs can be problematic. One of us easily climbed into the shotgun seat across from the driver. The other one of us took the seat behind, but it was not easy getting into it. Once seated, I was more nervous as to how I was going to gracefully get out of it. I had about 15 minutes to figure it out by the time we arrived back at the pier. Letting most of the guests get off first, we both made it out of those seats, but not without some wiggling and squeezing. No wonder we hate taking buses……
Passing through the terminal building was just as we expected. The vendors were putting pressure on all of the returning guests, and we made a mistake looking too long at their beaded sandals. Asking the price of one pair, we were told $50. No way….we just paid $15 for the same type of sandals in Zanzibar. We said no thanks (I really did not want them), but the vendors chased us outside and said give us your best price. We said $10, and they walked away. We arrived to our room before 3pm.
All aboard time was 4:30pm, and it came about quickly as we listened to the Captain's talk. We have 342 nautical miles to reach Durban, South Africa, at a speed of 10 knots. The swells would increase to 6 feet later in the evening. Arrival to Durban would be quite early, but it depends on the speed the pilot can arrive by helicopter. Can you imagine this port is so large the pilots get on ships by a helicopter drop? Customs and immigrations officials will inspect all of us in the cruise terminal.
The sail away was nice, since the ship had to turn around, giving us a perfect view of the Maputo- Katambe Bridge with the sun setting. Just beautiful. It was dark by the time we exited the area. And time for dinner. We ordered salads, a soup, a shrimp cocktail and mains of Peruvian chicken and a stew-like beef bourgeon. Desserts were a sliced banana with hot fudge sauce and one tres leches pudding. A sweet way to end a fun day.
Looking forward to one day at sea. Wish it was more.
Bill & Mary Ann
