The Zuiderdam arrived to the port of Takoradi, Ghana with the assistance of the pilot and two tugboats that all arrived late, according to Captain Friso. We were docked starboard with two gangways set up shortly after 8am. Seated at our window table in the Pinnacle Grill at breakfast, we had ringside seats to watch both tugs and the pilot boat in action. While checking out the action from deck three, we noticed some birds flying high overhead. Getting some close-ups, we decided they were the red kites seen in this part of Africa. Also present were pied crows that mixed with the kites. Both types of birds are migratory from Europe.
Since we were here last year, we did remember the area well. But first we'll tell you what the shore excursions were for today. One 4 ¾ hour trip went to a cocoa farm village to learn the process from bean-to-chocolate products. Did you know that cocoa is the number one export from Ghana – the second largest in the world?
The next bus tour took folks to the "twin cities" to see the highlights of Takoradi and neighboring Sekundi 11 kilometers away. Takoradi is the main port for imports and exports with the railway system and Market Circle. Close by Sekondi is a fishing village where the local traditional fishing boats are built. Refreshments would be served while watching a cultural show for 3 ¼ hours for $230.
Kakum Rain Forest and canopy walkway (30 meters high) was 7 ¼ hours for $290 which included a lunch. This national park is a place of herbal medicines where you might see elephants, monkeys, and birds like parrots and hornbills. It's a 2 ½ hour drive each way and it was recommended to wear sturdy shoes and bring a good insect spray.
Village life and castles was 7 ¾ hours for $330 with a visit to a fishing village where fish is smoked. Note: if you are sensitive to smoke….don't do this tour. This was a stop at a school and two castles built in 1652 where slave dungeons existed. It was a 90 minute ride each way.
A warning came with these tours saying that the local tour structure may provide an authentic experience. However, don't be surprised if there are operational glitches cropping up. And the folks are paying from $190 to $330? Why so much….we do not know.
It may not come as a surprise that it was hot and humid today. Unforgiving. We decided to leave the ship after 10am and take the complimentary shuttle to the city center. It was a 5 km drive to downtown from the port, and no one was allowed to walk out of the port, nor would we want to since it was a very long and dusty way to the port gate. Of course, we just missed the small shuttle, but we were next in line for the one that would come in 20 minutes. At least we were first , but somehow a line of folks appeared from the side building and rudely cut some of us off. An elderly lady questioned a man, and he simply ignored her and boarded first. Takes all kinds we say.
Now here's the funny thing that happened at the SG Bank drop-off stop. When the folks looked around at this run-down center of town with hordes of local vendors and native shoppers, only a few of us got off of the bus. The rest stayed on and went right back to the ship. This would repeat itself the rest of the afternoon.
Street after street had vendors selling fresh produce and fish that had been smoked. Some fellows were selling fresh fish with flies all over them. And yes, they did smell sitting in the hot sun. All types of clothing, shoes, knock-off handbags were being sold in the center of the wide streets and along the crumbling sidewalks. Typical housewares and luggage were there too. The most colorful waxed batik fabrics were sold from tiny shops. A few pharmacies were scattered in the mix, but we did not see any restaurants.
Taking photos discreetly was challenging as some locals objected even though great care was taken to keep the vendors out of the pictures, and take only the objects of interest. Trying to negotiate for a pair of sandals led nowhere. The young boy at this street stand did not understand English, nor did he know the US dollars we were offering. He went for help. A woman vendor suggested we go to a bank or ATM to get local Ghanaian cedi, since she did not take US dollars. Nope, not going to do that, we thanked her anyway.
After an hour of roaming the streets and dodging the cars and people, we headed back to the shuttle stop. When the huge project of the new Market Circle is completed, all of these make-shift stalls and tables will move into the circle. It will contain 2400 stalls, 33 restaurants, and a huge food court. It is promised to be done by the fall of 2024. From the looks of it now, it might take much longer than that.
The shuttle did not leave until every seat was filled and another bus arrived. Squashed like sardines, the ride was short and the air-conditioning worked well. On the pier across from the ship was a very large craft market selling all types of souvenirs, unlike downtown that sold mainly everyday items. One of us was interested in the Ghanaian jewelry made from recycled glass and sea glass. It is called Krobo, a local art, but was hard to find a lot of it today. We happened upon a nice lady who separated several from the pile. We ended up buying three of them and a pair of earrings that matched them all. Another 3 piece set of ceramic stones stood out at another table, so we got those too. There were very few t-shirts for the guys – mostly pull-over African batik stiff shirts with the vibrant colors. OK to wear here, but never at home. Several crew members were coming over to buy stuff as well. Many of the treasures we saw here like the wood-carved animals, bowls, woven baskets and masks will be repeated in the port of Bangul, The Gambia. It will be the last stop for African mementos and the prices should be just as good or better.
It was oppressively hot by now and the wind was picking up the dusty sand that stuck to us all. Good time to re-board the ship and cool off with ice cold sodas. Lunch was a room service Cobb salad and two roast beef paninis. These sandwiches are really smaller than they used to be, but knowing that, you can always order more. We never do that, since the smaller portions work better in the long run. Working on photos and researching info, it was time for sail away. All aboard was 4:30pm, but our actual departure did not happen until after 6pm due to late buses coming back from tours. Captain Friso said they were escorted by police, but then, we think that is the norm here anyway. So much for unexpected glitches. It worked out better, since we caught the sun setting while leaving the port.
Today was the Dutch King's Day, and a chance to wear orange and go crazy for some. We saw some orange wigs, hats, and orange bow ties, but mostly on the waiters and head waiters. The menu was Dutch-related, except for our mains, which were the promised veal chops we had missed from yesterday's Club Orange menu. Our waiter had promised to have the chefs serve them to us this evening, and they remembered. Because it was a special order, the chops came super- hot and extra good. A few veggies and some cilantro rice made the meal complete. But the best was yet to come….desserts of Boschebol, a Dutch chocolate éclair filled with the creamiest whipped cream in the center, drizzled with thick chocolate sauce. We don't do dessert often, but when this appears, we each have one.
The Dutch party continued at 8pm in the Crow's Nest with another party happening in the Rolling Stone Lounge. Entertainment was a comedian named Mark Sampson telling a story about a family's 7 year African journey using waste vegetable oil to power their 10 ton lorry. Now that is different for sure.
Looking forward to three sea days. Even walking the promenade deck after dinner, we noticed it as still over 80 degrees.
Bill & Mary Ann
