One of us woke up to a powerful lightning and thunder display around 2am last night. Even with the drapes closed tight, the bright flash of the lightning lit up our room. Of course, one of us had to crack the drapes open more and watch it , until it put me to sleep. Since we seldom have that kind of storm where we live, it was rather exciting. And it wasn't long afterwards, that the pilot came onboard from a helicopter drop around 4am. We slept through that one. By the time we woke up, we were already docked portside across from the Nelson Mandela Cruise Terminal.
The warnings about walking out of this terminal area were numerous. Kimberly mentioned the dangers of walking out of this port in her talk a few days ago, and it was announced several times today. Looking at the surrounding buildings, we could not imagine it was that dangerous. But we do recall some folks that had been attacked and robbed here several years ago. We would follow the advice and stick to the shuttle transfer.
We went to breakfast as usual until it was time to go through the passport inspection and stamping which began after 7am. This was done in the terminal by deck numbers beginning with decks 8 and 10. By 9am, our deck was called where we joined the Disneyland line of folks waiting to see the officials. The line moved slowly, but picked up when Captain Friso showed up. We got the distinct impression that there were some grumpy guests that were complaining. We remember the feeling of anxiety when you have a taxi waiting for you to go to the airport for an overland safari. And here you are, stuck in a long line. Part of the hold-up was due to the fact that the crew members were being filtered into the line. In order to get the guests cleared quicker, Captain Friso had the crew held back, letting the guests get to their tours.
Once our passports were scanned and stamped, we went back onboard and waited to get off after 10am. Another drill was in progress by then, and we were tired of hearing the horn blown and the loud announcements occurring every few minutes. The shuttles were waiting outside the terminal exit, and we were on our way to uShaka Marine World, which turned out to be a 10 minute ride for 1.7 miles. We assumed this was a water park, but we were pleasantly surprised to find it was also a semi-outdoor mall with unique shops and plenty of eateries.
We had run into Jacques, who was also here and recommended a restaurant that was located in an old ship called the Cargo Hold. What none of us knew was that all of the waterpark including the ship restaurant were closed on Monday. But there were plenty of other options and dozens of shops and boutiques to check out. We found that most of the venues took Visa or Mastercard, but not all took American Express. And because the ship did not sell African rand, we had no cash to spend. There were two or more ATM's in this complex, but had heard stories of guests losing their cards in them. No way would we chance that. One of the shop owners suggested we visit the tobacco shop where they were selling rand. A long line was outside that store, so we passed on the idea. There was nothing we really needed except lunch.
We did do window shopping and found the prices of the local souvenirs were reasonable. There were no high end stores, but many local shops selling African products and clothing. We guess that half of the stores and restaurants did take American Express. One exception where Am Ex was not taken was a nicer place that served pizza. When we found the Cargo Hold closed, we ended up at John Dory's and found their food to be just fine. Seated at a table by the window facing the beach, we ordered two local beers of Castle Light. One of us had the hake and calamari plate and the other had a BBQ chicken breast - both of which came with chips (fries). We added a shared dessert of cheesecake, a layered chocolate cake, a custard and a bit of ice cream. With a tip, the bill came to $28.00 or 531.00 rand. Once again, reasonable like in Maputo. Where else in the world can you get a pint of draft beer for the equivalent of $2.60?
We had the view of the Golden Mile, a beachfront with several high end hotels. We could see a wide paved walkway for the entire length of the beach, but once you left the uShaka property, you were game for all of the vendors that chase you with things to buy. We did notice when some of these vendors came too close to the exit of uShaka, cops were there to send them on their way. It would have been a good walk, but decided against it. The wind was blowing and we would have been blasted with sand.
Going back the way we came, we checked out more shops and did stop at the info center to pick up local maps and brochures with all sorts of helpful information. The shuttle bus came on the ½ hour, and arrived shortly after we got there. Many crew members had come here too, so they filled ½ of the bus. On the way back, we did see some buildings that were in shambles, and also spotted some homeless-like guys hiding behind the walls. This is where guests could be blind-sided and get attacked. Oddly enough, there were no local people out and about on any street near the terminal. We got back to the ship in 7 minutes and in our room by 2pm.
So what did a lot of people do today? The ship's tours all went out of town except for three of them – the scenes of Durban for 3 ½ hours for $100 , or Arts and Spice for 3 hours and $80. A panoramic drive around Durban was 3 ½ hours for $70. Two tours for $140 were the Nelson Mandela capture site and Howick Falls for 5 hours. The Valley of 1000 Hills was 4 hours for $140 and Monkeyland Sanctuary was $130 for 5 hours. A popular day safari (one of which we have done) was to Tala Game Reserve for 5 hours and $220. Four overlands went from Durban one of which was to Kapama Karula for 3 nights four days for $5400. Another chance to see Victoria Falls, Botswana and Chobe for 4 nights and 5 days was $6800. Leopard Mountain Lodge for 3 nights and 4 days was $3200, and Phinda Lodge for 3 nights and four days was $4500. All of these prices were per person. Ouch! And all of these overlands were sold out on day one.
Here's a tidbit of info on South Africa. The population is 54 million and there are three capitals: Pretoria, Cape Town and Bloemfontein. There are numerous official languages which include Zulu, Xhosa, Afrikaans, English, Swati, Tsonga, South Sotho, North Sotho, Tswana, Venda, and Ndebele. And probably there are more. This is a country of astounding diversities with two oceans, black-maned lions, desert dunes, powdery beaches, star-studded skies and lush mountains. It is a wonderful place to visit.
If you wish to see the Big 5 (lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants, and Cape buffalo) then South Africa is for you. The best safari destination that we would highly recommend has to be any one of the cool safari camps in and around Kruger National Park. It is 217 miles long and over 37 miles wide with 19,485 square kilometers – a staggering size. The winelands have become like a religion here due to the perfect growing conditions. World class vines are produced in this region. The holy trinity of wineries is Stellenbosch, Francschoek, and Paarl.
To understand this country is to learn the history of apartheid and civil war and Nelson Mandela. Currently we have speakers onboard that have covered these subjects in depth. If nothing else, if the mistakes of the past are remembered, then perhaps they will not be repeated. Famous words that apply from the past and into the future we hope.
All aboard was 4:30pm, but as always, some folks were late coming back from tours, and we did not leave until closer to 5pm. Captain Friso sounded concerned about the winds, which were blowing from 25 to 30 knots or more. The swells were expected at 6 feet with waves being the same. We could tell the wind was having an effect on the ship as it was pulled away from the pier. Once the bow was lined up with the exit, it was the pedal to the metal.
Now the exciting thing was we had a pilot who was taken off of the Seaview Pool deck, and the most exciting fact was our local pilot was a woman. We watched as the copter circled the ship several times before dropping the rope with the sling to pull her up. At the party, Bob showed us video he took as the lift was happening. What a job to have…..we all gave her credit for being brave doing a job like that. Of course we were all thinking how glad we were not to have that type of career. Once we cleared the opening, we were off heading towards to Cape Town 840 nautical miles away. We did have a few brief passing showers, but nothing bad.
We had an invite to a President's Club Vintage Dinner at the Pinnacle Grill with the officers and staff. Cocktails started off the occasion in the Pinnacle Bar at 5:30pm. Usually these affairs begin at 6:30pm, but for some reason, it was earlier. It worked out perfectly because we did not miss the sail away, which we have not done for many years. We always fly from Durban for a safari. Captain Friso was a no-show for cocktails and dinner, but he did send the Staff Captain, Babek, to join the group. He had joined the two of us and Martha and Bob at a stand-up table for cocktails, then he was seated with us and five others at the table for 8 in the Pinnacle Grill. He is a very nice young fellow, still in his forties, like Captain Friso. We did enjoy his company and we hope he liked the seven of us "old-timers". Captain Friso was supposed to host us, but he was obviously driving the ship and never appeared.
The menu was agreeable to most everyone, especially the allergy-prone one of us. We had a choice of a shrimp cocktail or a chef's salad. We chose the salad with our own favorite dressings and it was quite good for a change. French onion soup followed, then there was a choice of mains with Dover sole or filet steak Diane. We both chose the steak, as did our tablemates Colette and Serge from Montreal. From seeing the bones some folks encountered with the sole, we knew we made the better choice. Dessert was a choice of crepes suzette or the long-gone volcano cake. Most all of us ordered the volcano. Fine wines were served throughout the meal, although we did not drink as always. The gathering ended about 8:30pm, although some of the folks stayed until 10pm chatting the night away, even after their hosts had departed.
The singing group from Africa, Shades of Africa" put on a show with traditional music in the World Stage, but we were so beat from the long day in town, we turned in early. Tomorrow will be a day at sea before arriving to Cape Town at 1pm the following day. Looking forward to the 2 ½ day visit there.
Bill & Mary Ann
