Report #31 Friday, January 30, 2026---Sea Day #3 Of 7----Antarctic Experience---Sunny Changing To Afternoon Overcast---34 Degrees---3mph Winds-----Casual Dress

One of us was up around 5am and greeted with a bright sunny morning.   There was one not so nice thing about this morning, and that was the lack of hot water.   What a surprise to take a shower that was tepid at best, then have it turn cold.   Whatever the problem they thought they fixed yesterday was only half done we guess.   No doubt everyone involved in our quadrant had called the front desk folks and asked about it.  But we will add our phone call right away with hopes that it will go back to normal soon.  The hot water did return but not until later in the afternoon.

 

Anyway, the scenery outside our veranda was stunning enough for the Captain to come on the speakers at 6:45am to announce for everyone to wake up and go look at what he found for us. We were somewhere in Gerlache Strait which was surrounded by ice-covered mountains.  The temperature was 1 degree Celsius, which was close to 34 degrees F.   There was barely a breeze and the waters were calm.  In no time, whales appeared blowing their spouts, surface feeding, and doing shallow dives.  What a way to start the day.

 

Needing some hot coffee, we went off to breakfast in the Pinnacle Grill, which you know has no real windows.  Just as we kidded, the Captain came on halfway during our meal and announced humpback whales were bubble-feeding.  Many guests left the room to duck out the now-opened bow for a quick photo.    We have seen this behavior on previous trips, so it wasn't something to let your meal get cold.   In fact, the ship was at a stand-still and the whales were not on the move.   We would see this later. 

 

Traveling deeper into Gerlache Strait, we stopped at Wilhelmina Bay where we saw many more whales feeding, diving, and displaying their diving tails.  We also sailed past an iceberg with a sea lion on it.  This large creature barely moved until we were past it.  Then he lifted his head in annoyance and laid back down.  At this point, we were having problems with the sound on our TV.  There was some commentary happening, but we had no sound on the bow camera channel.  The echo outside was bad, so the talking could not be understood.   So we called the front desk gal and she re-booted our TV remotely.  It worked and we were glad she could fix it.   

 

Around 11:15am, we were near Emma Island looking for more wildlife.   Captain Rens came on with his talk later than usual and said he was heading towards Higgins Bay in search of penguins and sea lions.  Right in front of us was a peak that towered at 935 feet.  About the same time we were getting lots of photos of the whales, an expedition vessel by the name of Aurora Expeditions was coming our way.  The Captain explained that they had priority here because they had made "reservations".     Shortly after we began heading out of this bay, another ship was on the way.  The name of this expedition ship was Roald Amundsen, named after the famous Norwegian explorer.  

 

Then we headed for Cuverville Island where we saw the largest gentoo penguin colony in the Antarctic Peninsula.  Among the gentoos, we also spotted some chinstraps.  This colony was at the base of a bare mountain where the icy banks and surrounding shoreline were tinted deep pink.   This stood out more than the penguins themselves.  And we are sure you have guessed what turned the ice pink?   Yep, it was the guano they leave behind.  Honestly, without a zoom lens on the camera, seeing these penguins was difficult.  It was even hard to make out the thousands of penguins using binoculars.    The surrounding waters were full of diving penguins feeding.    Sometimes there are leopard seals or killer whales hunting them, but we did not see any predators today.

 

We believe there was a third ship on the way,  so we headed out to another bay where the Captain said he was going to get up and close to three icebergs while playing the theme song from the Titanic.   Surely he was kidding about the run-in with icebergs, but he did have them play a few seconds of the famous song.  Then it stopped.  We seem to recall that there is a noise level in these waters and playing loud music would not be acceptable.  And besides, there were humpbacks diving all around this area, and he may have risked a fine at the very least.   Our camera was on fire with all of the photos presented to us today.  Besides the numbers of whales, we also saw not only Adelie and gentoo penguins, but also the chinstraps.   The sightings of the humpback whales far exceeded what we have seen while in Alaskan waters.  Hundreds of penguin photos were snapped during the course of the day.

 

Eventually, we left the scene as did most of the guests that had braved the cold while viewing from the bow and deck six forward.  As long as we are on the subject of ice forms, here is the explanation of the main types.  Icebergs are at least 16.5 feet above the sea level and obviously higher many of the times.   Bergy bits are 3.2 to 8.2 feet above the waves.  Ice less than 1 meter or 3 feet in height are called growlers, due to the noise they made on the sides of old wooden ships.  The smallest ice is called brash ice and can be as small as a hamster.  They crackle as they melt in the sea water.  We'll include more ice descriptions tomorrow

 

The scenery continued for the rest of the day, even during dinner when we saw a gigantic mountain of an iceberg.  It appeared by looking at the TV monitors that the ship was doing zigzags, and staying in one area.  We do recall that they take the ship out of the area for the night, then return in the wee hours of the morning.  According to what we heard, we will not be going much further south.  By the way, we were able to locate yesterday's recap of the expedition team on the TV.  At least we picked up the course the ship had taken and why we missed Elephant Island and passing through Hope Bay.  There does not appear to be a set plan for this Antarctic Exploration like they do with an Alaska cruise when we go into Glacier Bay.   We guess the conditions are ever-changing and the best thought out plans can change instantly. 

 

Dinner was good with two salads, a chicken pho soup, seafood cocktail and entrees of sticky pork belly with pineapple soy sauce and coconut rice.  Very different, but nice for a change.  We tried a cheese platter to share for dessert but found it a heavy way to end a meal.  One of us is very picky about cheese, and one of the choices was not that great.   A mouthful of candied ginger might do the trick to erase the nasty taste on the way out….

 

A dance duo team of May Roman & Williams Malpezzi performed a "Love Story" performance.  The elements of the four seasons was the theme.

 

More scenic sailing tomorrow.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

464 Pictures

Report #30 Thursday, January 29, 2026---Sea Day #2 Of 7----Antarctic Experience---Heavy Overcast And Fog---34 Degrees----65 Knot Winds---Snow Flurries-----Casual Dress

Antarctica is like no other place on earth.  The feeling of remoteness, extreme cold, daylight almost 24 hours, wildlife like no other barely puts a dent in a description.  All of yesterday and last evening,  the Volendam sailed in the infamous Drake Passage, considered a rite of passage for Antarctic tourists like all of us.  This treacherous stretch of water is known for some of the roughest seas in the world.   Normal swells can reach 33 feet with blasting winds, and icy waters.  Simply put, the ocean currents meet the warm subantarctic water in the north, and the colder Antarctic waters from the south.  They do not readily mix creating condition unlike any other place except for maybe Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn.  The Drake Passage is also known for the sea birds that thrive here.  And true to its reputation, we experienced some of those conditions until we reached calmer seas late this morning.

 

We have to include a few facts and figures for Antarctica.  The size of the continent is 4.59 million square miles.   The size of the Southern Ocean is 13.9 million square miles, and the thickness of the ice sheet averages 7546 feet.  The maximum thickness can be 15,670 feet.  The highest mountain is Vinson Massif at 16,066 feet.  You will not believe the average rainfall – 6 inches per year.  The lowest recorded temperature was -128.2 degrees Fahrenheit, and the maximum wind speed was 186 mph.  The number of tourists visiting Antarctica in 2018 was 51,707.  Also interesting is the fact there is no capital and no official language.  

 

So far, we have received seven flyers concerning general guidelines while visiting this pristine area.   One of us did take the time to read each and every warning, finding most of it common sense.  All we know is that if you lose something overboard, you will be in a heap of trouble. 

 

So today we had hoped to see Elephant Island, as we were due to pass by it around 6am.  However, we must have been doing a better speed and the ship by-passed the island between 2 and 3am.  That kind of tells us there was no intention of stopping there.  Many times, fog will prevent the sight anyway, so a decision must have been made to skip it.  It is a small outcropping, but famous for the place Shackleton's men were stranded, 21 of them in 1914,  while others went in search of help.  They were there for 105 days hungry, thirsty, and near freezing.  Living on the penguins, they built a makeshift shelter from 2 overturned boats, stone walls, and sailcloth.  They named it Point Wild.  The campsite does not exist anymore, but there is a memorial to Captain Luis Pardo from a Chilean ship, who rescued the men on August 30^th, 1916.

 

By the time we woke up, all we could see was fog and a heavy mist coming up from the wave crests.  The wind was blowing much stronger than the reported 29.2 mph, because the bow was not opened as they had promised.   Everything was drenched including our veranda and windows.  With the pitching and rolling, it was even difficult walking to the Pinnacle Grill for breakfast.    Working on the Falkland photos took all morning, as did the reports and map-studying. 

 

There were a couple of announcements for penguins jumping, mostly on the portside.  But you had to be fast, because they were faster than we were.  Gone in seconds, they dove in groups and disappeared.  The Captain was late in giving his noon talk and admitted he had slowed to 11 knots.  He had said there were seabirds (some albatross) and two very large icebergs.  For the rest of the afternoon, he said the visibility was poor and there was little chance of viewing anything.  Guess we got lucky, since one of us did manage to get some pictures of various birds and gentoo penguins.  The captain said he was heading for Gerlache Strait, and we should see some whales by tomorrow.  Hope so.  He also alluded to the fact that they are in contact with other ships in the area and were getting reports on weather and sightings.  That is a good thing.  We are not alone…..

 

On another note, we had an urgent notice that the plumbers would be carrying out critical maintenance on the potable hot water system.   This was done today between 9:30am and 11:30am.  We did have cold water.  However, by the time one of us was ready to take a nighttime shower, the water was tepid at best.  Running the faucets did not improve the temperature.  Up until now, we have had almost scalding hot water but were used to controlling it.  Cold showers are not going to work. 

 

We did see two icebergs at 1:30pm followed by several penguin and bird sightings.  Most people we talked to saw nothing.  Luck of the draw and having the zoom lens makes a big difference.  Even our waiter, Dwi, at dinnertime laughed when we said we had dozens of photos of wildlife today.    Speaking of dinner, we had a Caesar salad, shrimp cocktail (almost an every night treat), a lettuce/tomato salad (hold the bleu cheese) and mains of beef brisket with an excellent gravy and mashed potatoes underneath.  They like to hide the veggies under the meat as well.  At least there was no hidden spinach.    Dessert was a small chocolate panna cotta and a plate of very ripe watermelon. 

 

Entertainment was a vocalist by the name of Lifford Shillingford singing soul music.  The Wajang movies have been slanted towards explorer-type movies keeping in mind the area in which we are traveling.  We noticed that it was still light outside when we got back to our room.  In fact, while typing at the desk,  one of us noticed it never really got dark.  That is an indication of how far south we have traveled and the fact that it is summer here.   More to come tomorrow…..

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

79 Pictures

Report # 29 Wednesday, January 28, 2026----Sea Day #1 Of 7---Antarctic Experience--Cruising Toward Elephant Island--Partly Sunny With Overcast--41 Degrees--25 Knot Winds---Dressy Dress

What a ride we had today on the way towards Antarctica and Elephant Island.   Except for breakfast, one of us never left the room until dinnertime.    The brave one of us did take a walk on the "closed" promenade deck, and came back to report the deck was dry and not slippery.  He failed to mention that the swells were up to 15 feet and the ship was pitching significantly.  Needless to say, few if any people were out there along with him.   One good thing, we did survive the night without smashing our fingers in the bathroom door.

 

So it was a good time to continue with research on the Falkland Islands, especially with all of the excellent brochures and maps we had picked up in town.  The Brits really did a good job promoting their overseas territory and their treasures of flora and fauna.  And sorting through photos was a day-long job. 

 

Just as well because the seas were really acting up as the day advanced.  During his noon talk, Captain Rens said it wasn't the 25 knot winds that were problematic, but the swells causing the pitching were the culprit.   The temperature had dropped to 41 degrees with a significant windchill factor.   There was no rain, but the humidity was still 90%.   Tomorrow we should expect 35 to 40 knot winds and temperatures in the 30's.   It was already 39 degrees at 7pm this evening.  We still had 265 nautical miles to go to reach Elephant Island.

 

Most all of today's activities were held inside the ship or at the Lido pool.  Sit & knit, water coloring, and craft workshop were all done while sitting down.  Several speakers are onboard with lectures all day.  Vonda Cummings spoke on hidden wonders of life in Antarctica waters while Dr Jim Jacobs talked about South America salt-making.  Ill fated expeditions was the subject for expert Iain Miller and the shore ex team spoke about the future ports of Ushuaia, Punta Arenas, Puerto Montt, and San Antonio.    Now we should be able to find all of these talks on our room TV.  Perfect.

 

So tonight was dubbed "dressy".  We sort of went mostly dressy, but kept on our sturdy tennis shoes due to the constant motion of the ocean.   Once you are seated at your table, who knows or cares what kind of shoes you are wearing?  Safety comes first.  We happened to notice a couple of decorations by the Ocean Bar with white and black balloons and feathers.  We wondered what we missed by not reading the Daily newsletter.    The theme was a night of music with the various bands playing in each venue from 6pm through 11:15pm.  "Special " guests were at each venue.  Not sure who they would be, but we suspected the Captain and his fellow officers were present.  We happened to spot some of them hosting tables in the dining room.

 

Dinner had a fancy menu with the usual suspects.   One of us ordered the small Caesar salad and one bowl of hot and tasty tomato soup.   Another appetizer of tuna chunks was different followed by mains of curly noodles (fusilly) with eggplant and a red sauce, and one serving of the surf and turf ( filet mignon and a crusted crab cake).    Only one of us had dessert which was an apple streusel.  Good, but really sweet.  

 

With all of the music-related activity happening, there was still a show in the World Stage with a comedian/magician by the name of Doc Dixon promising 100% FUN. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

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Report #28 Tuesday, January 27, 2026---Port Stanley, Falkland Islands---8am-4:30pm---Anchored, Using Ship Tenders---Sunny---50 Degrees---76% Humidity----Windy-----Casual Dress

Well, we are in the Falkland Islands today, a British Overseas Territory, with a total of 700 islands.  Only 11 of them are permanently inhabited.   The total population the last we checked was about 4000 people, 2/3  of which live in the capital of Stanley.  It is home to an unimaginable number of penguins, waterbirds, sea lions and elephant seals, lots of sheep and a few humans.

 

Known as Isla Malvinas in Argentina,  that same country invaded these islands in 1982 to regain control from England.  They lost and England won, although there were casualties on both sides.  Today, these islands are visited by many expedition and cruise ships when the weather co-operates.  Tourists can see the many sights of bays, inlets, estuaries and sandy beaches, some of which still contain hidden land mines.   Often spotted are crested caracaras, cormorants, oystercatchers, snowy sheathbills and a bunch of penguins.  Petrel, albatrosses, geese, flightless steamer ducks, and gulls are seen in many parts of the islands.  

 

Larger animals include sea lions, elephant and fur seals, 5 species of dolphins and killer whales.  Humpback whales are seen during the migration season.  If we do make it there, we will see metal-clad houses, and pubs where one can down a pint or two with some fish and chips, the most popular dish on the island.  Fresh fish and lamb are also on that list. 

 

The ship arrived quite early to the harbor with temperatures in the low 50's, 76% humidity, 9 mph winds and clear blue skies.  Very cool, but at least the worst of the swells and high winds were gone from last night.   Or at least we thought the winds had died down.  Sailing into Stanley Harbour was very scenic under such clear blue skies as we watched from our veranda.  Although it was quite a distance, one of us was able to get pictures of Gypsy Cove and Yorke Bay where many Magellanic penguins were making their way from their hillside burrows to the sandy beaches below.   On the smaller end the penguin family,  these birds make a braying sound that sounds like the jackass (donkey) braying.  Thus, they have been nicknamed jackass penguins. 

 

We waited until close to 10am before heading for deck 4 and our meeting point to go to the tender platform.  Kumar radioed ahead and we went directly down to deck one, then into the elevator to deck A.  The elevator monitor checked our room keys and saw the President's Club sign on them, giving us an instant OK to go.  Jonah was there and said to go ahead on the next tenderboat.  Boarding was fine, since the winds were not that bad yet.  The ride took about 15 minutes to the Tender Arrival/Departure dock and the very nice Visitor Center.  While there, we found a bunch of most useful maps and brochures to take. 

 

Although we had not figured out a set plan for today's visit, we knew we did not need a ship's tour.  And recalling there was not a whole lot to see in the town, we decided to take the coach ride to the Gypsy Cove Nature Trail.  The price was right at $10 USD each for a round trip ride.  A wristband was given to us to identify us as paid passengers.  Other excursions sold on the ship were Stanley on foot for 2 ½ hours and $80.  Also affordable was Stanley highlites for 2 ½ hours and $90.  A bird safari and nature trek was 3 ½ hours for $120, while a tour of the battlefields was 3 hours and $120.   Stanley Heritage and wildlife was 3 ½ hours for $130.  Fitzroy farms was 5 hours and $160 and Joe's gentoo penguins was 2 ½ hours for $200.  Bluff Cove penguin rookery was 3 ½ hours for $220.  Bertha's Beach & wildlife was 5 hours and $210 and two of the most expensive excursions were Seal Bay wildlife for 7 ½ hours for $430 with a bag lunch, and another long tour was Volunteer Point king penguin rookery for 7 ½ hours and also $430 with a box lunch.    On past visits here we took the long tour to Fitzroy farms with a very long and rough ride going and coming back.   A one-time excursion for us.  

 

The coach ride turned out to be a double-decker bus with just the two of us and another couple in the upper bus at the front windows.  Wow, what a view we had on mostly paved roads passing the homes, cemetery, supermarket and eventually the airport.   Very few locals were out and about, except for the road workers.   There were birds everywhere such as the local vultures, possibly caracaras, endemic ducks, upland geese, gulls, and possibly some black-browed albatross.   After a ride that took us around the cove and over the hills, we arrived to Gypsy Cove.  Since we were here last, they have built a convenient restroom and shelter with benches.   Across the road which dead-ended here, there was a well-marked and roped off path that led to some of the most beautiful views of the bays below.  There were at least three park rangers or docents who warned us all not to leave the roped-off paths since this was an area where the Argentinian army left several land mines during the war in 1982.  An interesting fact we learned was that the penguins were not large enough to set off a land mine, but a human definitely would trigger it.  

 

From two viewing platforms, we could see the white sand beaches below in Yorke Bay and Gypsy Cove.  The penguin numbers were small, like we saw a total of a dozen.  But the ranger said many more would come out around 3pm.  We were also told that the Magellanic penguins were molting now, and they tend to stay inside their burrows in the sandy slopes.  They are also more vulnerable to attacks from sea lions during this period, so they tend to feed closer to the shoreline.  We did get a chance to see two young and fluffy chicks in a nest near the trail, which we never would have seen if the ranger did not point them out to all of us. 

 

The long and rocky trail split at the end where the platforms were.  So one of us took the harder walk over the top of the ridge, while the other one of us went back the same way, even though that trail was rocky and uneven.  This path led to Ordinance Point where he spotted WW II artillery and gun placements and more good signage.  The path led to scrubland with natural occurring plants that included the diddle dee shrub, a bush that produces a bitter-sweet tiny berry that birds thrive on.  Locals use the berries to make a sweet jam using plenty of sugar to cut the bitterness.   A small 2-ounce jar of this jam sold for under 3 British pounds back in town. 

 

Forgot to mention this, but we had walked over a mat that had been soaked with a disinfectant to prevent avian bird flu that has popped up here and even in Antarctica.    Also, the signage along this trail was wonderful, pointing out everything we were seeing.  That included the wildlife, but also the indigenous grasses that dot the sandy slopes which become home to these penguins.  One unusual fact is that these borrows are infested with fleas from the birds. 

 

We met back up at the restrooms and sat in the sun until the coach arrived.  The buses were running every ½ hour.  Protected from the worst of the winds, we gladly sat there watching the scenery and breathing the cool fresh unpolluted air.  Time to go, we rode the bus with only the two of us.  We passed by the airport and around the Whalebone Cove where a rusted old vessel was left to decay.  The name was the Lady Elizabeth Shipwreck.  There was no commentary by the driver, but we were happy that his concentration was on the narrow road with hairpin turns.   Being a British territory, we were still put off by the traffic on the "wrong" side of the road.  Of course, they would insist our traffic patterns were incorrect.  We were back to the visitors center in time for a walk through town and possibly lunch.

 

Although we have visited here several times, we never did see much of the town.  It is more like a village with shops, cafes, and bars looking more like houses.  Things are basic here and not "touristy".   We have to mention that the wind had picked up significantly and was blowing cross the waterside road.  We even got splashed walking here. Climbing a steep side street, we found we had left most of the sites back on the main street.  So we headed back down to Ross Road and Christ Church Cathedral, and Anglican church, actually the most southerly Anglican cathedral in the world.  It was built in 1892 and houses a monument of four blue whale jaw bones formed in an arch.  It was constructed in 1933 to mark the 100 year anniversary of British administration in the Falklands. 

 

We did not have to go far to pass more icons such as Victory Green with ship relics, rows of barrack houses, a police station and prison, a bank and perhaps a few shops.  That's when we came across Martha and Bob who had finished their tour and were dropped off at the Malvina Hotel, the largest hotel in town.  They had must come from a nice lunch there and said they had pizza.  OK, we shall give it a try, even if the steps were steep at the entrance.  The hotel was nice inside, but we were a bit disappointed with their beer.   Brewed locally, we had a blonde draft brew, but it was served room temperature with very little effervescence.  It was more like a light wine, and nowhere near to the ice-cold beers we know.  The margherita pizza looked better than it tasted, since the crust appeared to be one of the frozen type.   We did have a nice corner table with a good view of the harbor.   They did not accept Am Ex, so we paid cash in US dollars.  Being a British territory, they are on the British pound sterling rate, which is not the best for the US dollar.  However, you never know until you take a chance and try something new.  Nine times out of ten, we get a winner. 

 

Right near the hotel was the Margaret Thatcher Memorial and Liberation Monument commemorating the War of 1982.  Above the memorial was the local hospital.  The winds had gotten much stronger, so we decided to go back to the tender landing.  It was 3pm, and we needed to get back by 4:30pm at the latest.  A line was quickly forming and we did see one tender about to leave.  Or was it?  For some unknown reason, the boat driver was having a hard time getting the boat to go forward in the driving current, deep swells, and waves beating it.  They were able to get the boat alongside and tie it down, taking several men to do it.  All of the guests were taken off (hopefully before seasickness set in) and led to another waiting boat.   Our group went next and instantly we knew we were in for a "thrilling" ride, just as friends Pauline and Mike warned us since they were here two days ago on the Oosterdam. 

 

The currents and swells were so strong, at times we felt like we were in a submarine as the waves splashed over the boat from all sides.   There was cheering from the crew members sharing the ride back, but also screaming from some of the guests.   Seawater came through the opening and got some folks wet.  Yep, it was quite a ride to remember but we did get back to the ship and boarded safely.  The Captain, Florin, and Kumar were there to assist the guests with mobility problems, and there were plenty of them.   We were back by 4pm, but there were still three more tenders to come back.  That did not happen until closer to 6pm.  

 

The tender were being lifted as the Captain came on with his talk.  He highly praised his officers and crew for their excellent help with today's tendering.  Honestly, we think other Captains would have cancelled the stop.  He predicted swells up to 15 feet as we sail towards Elephant Island in Antarctica.  He emphasized the need for all to be careful as well as stashing anything breakable on the floor.   I addition, he said to watch your fingers with closing bathroom doors.  Guess there have been some finger injuries with some guests.  Keeping the bathroom door opened especially during the night would solve that problem.    Tomorrow's winds were predicted to be 38 knots and 41 degree temps.

 

Dinner was good with Caesar salads, a savory navy bean soup, brie starters followed by a lamb entree and a cannelloni plate.  Dessert was one tiny custard and one plate of sliced pineapple.  No show for us as we were totally exhausted.  What an exhilarating day.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

525 Pictures

Report #27 Monday, January 26, 2026----Sea Day #2 Of 2----Enroute To Stanley, Falkland Islands----Cloudy With Sea Haze----50 Degrees----24mph Winds----6' Swell----Rough----80% Humidity-----Casual Dress

Yesterday we got a message from the Volendam Management Team saying they were pleased to inform all of us that the guest lecturers would be able to be viewed on our stateroom TV's.  We have been asking for that for several years now and are very pleased that they are able to do it.  In the old days, the lectures were always televised.   Then they stopped doing it.  Not everyone is able to make it to the talks for several reasons like conflicting activities.  For us, we try to avoid crowds.  There was one exception to the talks being shown in our rooms and that was if the presenters objected to it.   The port talks will be repeated on the TV as well.  We do hope they resolved the problem with no sound. 

 

Once again, what a difference a day makes.   Yesterday was warm and mostly sunny, but today, it was overcast and decidedly cooler.  As the day advanced, the conditions worsened with a cold wind, some light rain, and rolling seas.   During his noon talk, Captain Rens said we had 288 nautical miles to reach the Falklands tomorrow at a speed of 16.5 knots.  At noon, the temperature was 59 degrees, but at 2pm, it was down to 50 degrees.   The humidity was 98% with 24.5 mph winds, causing some rocking and rolling with 5 foot or better swells.  Then the Captain added that tomorrow was looking good, except by the afternoon, the winds would pick up.   That could make tendering very dangerous.  He did add that while going ashore to please accept the help of the crew getting in and out of the tenderboats.   By dinnertime, we were feeling the motion of the ocean big time.

 

We did spend a short time at the Sea View pool, but with mugs of hot chocolate instead of ice water.   There were very few people back there, mostly the dedicated smokers on the starboard side.  Speaking of smoking, we did get a notice asking us to be most careful with anything that can blow overboard while in Antarctica.   And smoking was only allowed at the Sea View pool.   If that isn't a reminder about the weather getting worse, we don't what is.  

 

There were several talks on Antarctica with the Expedition Team onboard now.  There was the IAATO briefing and navigation overview held in the World Stage this morning.   Hopefully this will show up on our TV this evening. 

 

Today must have been Australia Day with a special Aussie tea and an Australian pub lunch in the Pinnacle Grill (charges applied).   We passed by a sheet cake that was not real in the Lido with a note next to it saying Do Not Touch.  It had the Australian flag on the top.  

 

We spent the rest of the day with the fan blowing in our room while we worked on pictures and reports.   Kumar called and said the workers had been in our room when we went to dinner last night and resolved the leak.  We shall see……..

 

Dinner was a rocking and rolling event.  So glad we had our special dinner last night.  Some of our buddies were in the King's Room for the second round, a total repeat of last night's cuisine and entertainment from the officers.  Their evening wrapped up around the same time as ours did….close to 9pm. 

 

We ordered one shrimp cocktail and another bowl of chicken noodle soup.  Mains were one sweet and sour chicken and a smoked brisket plate with mashed potatoes and a very tasty BBQ sauce.  Both were excellent, but we had no room for dessert.  Just as well, as we polished off the rest of my little birthday mousse cake for lunch.  

 

A pianist by the name of Tomono Kawamura was the entertainer this evening  in the World Stage.   No doubt she was good.

 

We are estimating a 50/50 chance of making it to the Falklands tomorrow.

 

Bill & Mary Ann 

 

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Report #26 Sunday, January 25, 2026---Sea Day #1 Of 2----Enroute To Stanley, Falkland Islands---Overcast Skies---92% Humidity---17.4mph---63 Degrees-----Casual Dress

So far, we have been looking for a day at sea with nothing to do.  There have been a few of those, but not enough.   Today was not one of those lazy days.  A few days ago, we all got a notice concerning a FULL passenger emergency muster drill.  This is required on all cruises every 30 days.  Perhaps arriving to Antarctica also has something to do with it.   The directions as to how to re-act and proceed were spelled out in the notice.  However, it was surprising how many people did just the opposite of what was asked of them.  

 

For starters, the crew did not want anyone on the promenade deck prior to the drill.  We were requested to stay inside and only proceed to the muster stations when instructed to do so.  What did some passengers do?   They went to the outside deck and proceeded to sit in the lounges which were being propped up along the back wall.  The rest of us had to use the stairs to get to deck three, unless we absolutely needed the elevators.    All we needed were our room keys to be scanned by our boat commanders. 

 

Then we waited and waited.  Our group for boat station # 6 were all present, however, 38 guests were missing.  We wondered how this drill worked with the Sunday Brunch, which began at 10am?   Maybe people had just gotten their food, then had to leave it.  Bad timing….. At the very least, we will not have to do this full drill for another month.

 

It was breakfast as usual for us and many others in the Pinnacle Grill.  After the drill, we went to the Seaview pool to catch some sun as the weather was simply beautiful.   It was warm, but not too warm with a nice breeze.  As we head further south, we expect to feel the coolness of the Antarctic breeze, especially in the Falkland's.  We did notice a kind of foggy haze on the horizon which contributed to the higher humidity.   There were a few dedicated sunbathers back there, but no one in the pool.  Salvador, the deck waiter, knows we like ice water, and he was there soon after we sat down.  

 

We kept busy catching up with photos and our exploits of the last two ports.   We had salads and split mini burgers along with half of our birthday dessert from last night. 

 

A couple of days ago, we had an invite from the Captain and Hotel Manager to a special dinner in the King's Room this evening.  It was an exclusive event for 20 of the President's Club members and about 7 of the officers.  The suggested attire was "dressy".   Pre-dinner drinks were in the back end of the Explorer's Lounge where we sat with Amy and the environmental officer for 45 minutes.  Nice canapies were passed around.  Then we were summoned to the King's Room at 6pm, where we were seated around the massive table in there.   Name tags were at each place setting, which happened to be plateware from Versace.  Very elegant.  As luck had it, one of us was placed next to Captain Rens.  He had many lively stories to share with all of us.  One such story was about a visit to Antarctica where the ship approached one gigantic iceberg.  By the time they reached it, fog had covered the entire berg.  The bow had been opened for those who wished to see this monster up close and personal.  Suddenly the giant calved, sending ice all over the bow deck.  The Captain and Florin had photos of this event on their cell phones.  Now if we heard this correctly, Captain Rens arranged to have the song from Titanic playing at the same time.  Must have been a memorable moment, maybe a bit over the top for some folks at the time.   He vowed to have a repeat performance when we reach that area.  Time will tell……

 

The menu had fancy courses beginning with foie gras, followed by a sunchoke soup, then poached lobster.  One of us does not like lobster, so prawns were substituted even though I said I did not need a substitute.  If Tina had been here, she would have taken the liberty to create a vegetarian course in place of the lobster.  A palate cleanser was the next course of frozen rosewater and raspberry snow.  The main entree was a blackened beef tenderloin with slivers of carrots and asparagus with a dollop of mashed potatoes.  Each course was served with wine, which we did not have by choice.  At one point, the Captain forcefully put down his red wine glass and the stem shattered.  We jokingly told him this dinner was a murder mystery and he was the victim.  With that, he got up and switched jackets with the staff Captain saying he could take over the ship.  Later in the evening, we realized some of the "acts" were pre-rehearsed. 

 

For the wine aficionados among us, here is the list.  Nicolas Feuillatte champagne began with the first course, followed by Julia's Dazzle Rose Walla-Walla Washington.  Pascal Jolivet Sancerre from France was served with the lobster, then Long Shadow Sequel Syrah also from Washington went with the tenderloin.  A Nutty Irishman finished the ample meal along with sweet dessert.

 

Eventually, dessert was served which was called a chocolate parfait of pear, coconut streusel and hazelnut ice cream.  A small glass of Kahlua, Bailey's, and Frangelico was served with the dessert.   As if this wasn't enough, a tray of chocolate sweets were brought for everyone.   The party broke up by 8:45pm with the parade of chefs and cooks taking a bow.  Long evening, but good food.

 

And we know this story is getting old, but the leak in our floor had re-appeared before we left for dinner.  Will this never end?   We reported it our room steward and also informed Florin.  When we returned from dinner, the dreaded fan was in place and blowing a gale.  The saga goes on……

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

No Pictures

Report # 25 Saturday, January 24, 2026---Montevideo, Uruguay---Docked Starboard Side To Pier--8am-4:30pm--Sunny With A Few Clouds---80 Degrees--18 Knot Winds---Casual Dress

It happened to be a special day for one of us – another birthday has rolled around.  The first reminder of that were the four colorful balloons taped on the outside of our door this morning.  There was a note saying Happy Birthday from the front desk folks.  We went to breakfast as usual, only to be greeted by Kumar wishing me a Happy Birthday after we finished our meal.    Then out of the blue, every one of the front desk personnel came out to sing for me.  Among the group was Manager Jonah, who always remembers these occasions.   So much for wanting to keep the day quiet.

 

The port of call for today was Montevideo, Uruguay, the capital of the country.  This will be our second stop in Uruguay, after visiting Punta Del Este a few days ago.  Montevideo is famous for their Carnaval parades which are held in early February.  We will just miss it by a few weeks.  It is said to be electrifying with rhythms of Afro/Uruguayan drumming.  

 

We were not alone here with the Sapphire Princess docked directly across from the Volendam.  This ship was built in 2004 and is close to 116 gross tons.  It holds up to 3214 passenger with a crew of 1100.  Needless to say, there will be a whole lot of guests in and out of town today. 

 

Once cleared, the shore excursions groups went off first we suspect.  There were one dozen tours today with three of them 3 to 4 hours in duration.   The first one was easy Montevideo for $80,   an old town walk for $90, and the city by bike for $100.   Tango at Baer Fun Fun? was 4 hours and $100 and scenic sites and Candombe rhythms for 3 hours and $110.  Highlites and Uru Carnival was 4  hours for $120 while traditional tasting and walk to street food stands was 4 hours and $120.  A drive to Colonia del Sacramento was 8 hours and $170 with lunch, and the ultimate beach experience was 8 hours for $190 with lunch.  The last three tours were all about the wine with lunch with 6 to 7 hours and $199 to $260.

 

We left the ship around 10am during another loud crew drill.  Following the green-painted path from the ship, we exited through the port terminal gate and directly into town.  There was no terminal building here that we could see.  Crossing the waterfront street, we were handed a much better city map with the streets well-marked as well as the highlights.  It was uphill all the way, but a gentle slope.

 

Considering that the Princess ship was here, we were surprised to see the pedestrian avenues were not crowded.  Of course, there were 12 excursions for just our ship, so passengers will come into the city later in the day we suspect.  We passed a series of small cafes and restaurants that had greeters trying to entice us to dine and drink there.  Too early, maybe later.  This was the start of the sidewalk vendors too.  They had table after table of typical souvenirs but very few leather things.  We remember seeing a lot more of the fancy handbags and backpacks six years ago.  Now we saw mostly caps, magnets, and some loose gemstones.  Not a lot of clothing, they did sell affordable woven jewelry.  And many of the shops along the way were still closed.   Once again, this society follows the later times for meals and entertainment.

 

We remembered to turn left on Sarandi Street, which led to one of the first plazas, Plaza Zabala.  This medium-sized square was surrounded with gardens,  a few cafes, and a quiet peaceful escape to the vendor areas.    The dried-looking grass was being watered by hand, since we are in the middle of their summertime.    From the flow of the hose, we figured the young lady will be there all day to cover this square.  Locals were there walking their dogs as well. 

 

Time to continue to the next square by the name of Plaza Constitution, which is surrounded by many historic landmarks, fountains, and monuments.  McDonald's is also located here along with a dozen local restaurants or cafeterias with Uruguayan cuisine.  But the best part of this square has to be the Saturday morning flea market where old treasures are sold.   Back in 2020, we bought 2 of the neatest jewelry sets that were one-of-a-kind antique creations.  Unfortunately, some of the pieces were lost when our shipped luggage went astray back in 2023.  So today was a chance to find a possible replacement, and guess what?  We did, but this time it was a lapis lazuli necklace and matching bracelet.  The real deal at a very affordable price, we also were able to match the set with earrings at a different stall.  Sure made my day even more special.   Better leave before we find more irresistible treasures.   

 

Leaving this plaza, we began to see many more museums and church towers.   This has to be close to the center of the ancient fortified Old City of Montevideo.  Passing through one of the preserved portals of that wall, we entered Plaza Independencia, a plaza honoring Uruguay's independence.  It was the most spacious plaza so far with a statue of General Artigas sitting on a magnificent horse.  We saw several tour groups either walking here like us, or on the bike tour.  Many locals were out and about with their dogs as well as kids.  We happened to chat for a while with a young couple who spoke good English.  They were walking the cutest little dog, who happened to like our shoes.  We learned she was a 4-month-old puppy who was gathering a lot of attention.  The couple asked where we were from and loved hearing about California.   More folks walking by stopped to pet the dog, so we said our goodbyes and continued on our way.  

 

There was an impressive church directly across from the ancient portal, but when we attempted to go inside, we were stopped due to a mass just beginning at high noon.    So we continued back-tracking, checking out the tables on our way back to the beginning.  On the corner, we went inside the Sea Port Market, which was in full gear for the lunch crowd.   This historic market has cafes that serve asado (beef) dishes and sides of veggies.  Some of the restaurants were simply counters with BBQ pits grilling the various meats.  Stores and shops were interspersed in between the eateries.  Way too hot and crowded, we ducked out of there in a hurry.

 

We never did find a suitable place for lunch, so we went back to the ship arriving by 2pm.  Just as we were going through the ship's xray, Jonah arrived giving me a birthday hug.  By doing that, prompted the security group to break out with singing Happy Birthday to me.   Almost embarrassing, we proceeded to the elevator hoping not many people witnessed that. 

 

We had a room service lunch, but very light since we had reservations for a Pinnacle Grill dinner.   

 

The Captain gave his talk after 4:30pm and remarked that the last of the needed stores for the ship had to be loaded.  There will be no more supplies delivered until after we leave Antarctica.  We  have 1110 nautical miles to reach The Falklands in a couple of days.   We will have river pilots sailing out into the estuary of the river, then regular pilots entering the South Atlantic Ocean.  The fresh winds were 18 knots with temps in the mid 70's.  He expected higher winds, lower temps, and partly sunny and partly cloudy skies tomorrow. 

 

Dinner at the Pinnacle Grill found us almost the last of the customers for the day at 8pm.  The food and service were wonderful as always.   We both had the wedge salads with one shared appetizer of a sliced beef taco.   One of us had the lamb and the other the smallest steak.  We shared the gigantic baked potato but could only eat half of it.  We passed on dessert, but lo and behold, a mousse-like cake appeared with the waiters and manager singing Happy Birthday.  What a day it had been.  By the way, we took the dessert back to our room and slipped it in the refrigerator. 

 

Looking forward to two lazy days at sea.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

381 Pictures

Report # 24 Friday, January 23, 2026---Buenos Aires, Argentina----Docked Starboard To Pier---8am-5:30pm---Clear And Sunny--82 Degrees---20 knot Winds---58% Humidity----Casual Dress

Argentina is our country to visit today.  It is one with a population of 46 million (2025) people that speak Spanish.  And the capital is Buenos Aires, our port of call for the day.   Most times, we spend two full days here, but not this time. 

 

When you think of the tango, gauchos, Patagonia, and the Andes, Argentina comes to mind.  It is a traveler's dream.  It is also home to Iguazu Falls, massive glaciers, the Pantanal, deserts, forests and salt flats.  It is also home to wildlife such as penguins, flamingoes, and capybaras. 

 

Food favorites in this part of the world include Argentinian beef grilled with a salty outer layer and almost rare smokey middle.  They specialize in dulce de leche or a caramel sauce.  It goes really well over helado, or their version of rich creamy ice cream.   You will find Italian cuisine is popular with pasta and pizza.  Sounds good to us.  They drink a concoction called mate, a bitter grassy tea, which has become like a social bonding drink.   We have spotted mostly the elderly men drinking this liquid out of a small cup with a short straw.    Wines are abundant due to the excellent growing conditions. 

 

There were many tours offered today starting with the least expensive which was the highlights of Buenos Aires for 3 ½ hours for $65.   Next was the spirit of Buenos Aires waterways for 4 ½ hours for $80.  An afternoon tango show was 3 ½ hours for $86 with drinks, then wine tasting for 4 hours and $110.  Highlights of the city and Café Tortoni was 5 ½ hours for $120 with a snack, while a culinary walk was 5 hours and $160 where there was 3 visits to restaurants.  Gaucho life on the pampas was 8 ½ hours with a BBQ lunch for $180 (we have done this one), and highlights with a tango dance and lunch topped off at $190 for 8 ½ hours.   Tied for the highest spot was horseback riding on the pampas for 8 ½ hours for $190 and a polo pony ride and show for the same price and 9 hours.   

 

We did what the ship offered and that was take a shuttle to the port gate (mandatory), then board another bus outside the terminal building which went to Plaza San Martin, a short ride from the terminal.  Plenty of buses were used during the day, and we had no wait to get to the Plaza.  For some unknown reason, the ship never provided maps of the city last night like they always do.  So this morning we asked at the front desk, and they had printed some from Google we think.  But they were only handed to those of us that had asked for one.  It was detailed, but impossible to read street names without using a very good magnifying glass. 

 

At breakfast, we asked some friends that had finally found the port talk that included three ports in one.  It must have appeared on our TV's late yesterday, and we heard that the Argentina talk had lost sound.  All our friends could get was closed captioning.  They sure are having some trouble in that department, so we do hope that it improves.    Wish we would have thought to mention that to the new hotel manager, Florin, who boarded the ship in Rio a few days ago.  He paid us a visit before we ordered dinner last evening and re-introduced himself.  We both remembered having him as a food and beverage manager under Henk Mensink several years ago.    Most of his concerns were about the problems we have experienced with our room leaks and broken exhaust fan.  Glenn must have updated him on all of the guests with problems like us.   We assured him that so far everything had been repaired, and we were happy that we did not have to move rooms.   Anyway, he will be on for the remainder of this grand world cruise and  beyond to the end of May.  

 

Located up the Rio De La Plata, the Volendam docked starboard to the Buenos Aires pier.  The river water was quite muddy, reminding us of the Amazon River.  There was a man overboard drill about 9:30am, and we left the ship shortly after it began.  And besides, the deck crew had come through our verandas on deck six and hosed everything down, leaving puddles that would last all day.  We  may have to ask our room stewards for a squeegee to push the water into the gutter.  

 

We found the shuttle buses, three of them in fact, but we missed one because we stopped to chat with the Staff Captain, Rakesh, who has been most friendly ever since we boarded.  He told us all about the officers, including Captain Rens, enjoying the savory BBQ meats of Rio and Uruguay.  He admitted it took going without a couple of meals to do justice to the treat.  We know since we have been there and done that, but years ago when we were much younger and able to handle copious meals like that.  Not so much these days.

 

Once we arrived to the cruise terminal, we recognized the building and the walk through some shops all the way to the waiting shuttles to town.   We picked up some better maps, one of which was their form of the Ho-Ho bus.  Those maps always list the names of the sights that they stop at, and sometimes pictures of each sight.  Anyway, the bus took us to Plaza San Martin where there was a very spacious and nice park.   Close-by was the Galerias Pacifico, a modern shopping complex with every high-end store you would need.   That was not really our destination, so we asked the tourist guide at the bus stop how to get to Puerto Madero from here.  He showed us the main streets to follow, which he considered safe enough for pedestrians.   It's always best to keep to an area where there are a lot of people walking.  In fact, before we left the bus at the terminal, we were warned about wearing nice jewelry and flashy watches.  That says it all.

 

Heading downhill, we passed by many shops, a park, and the Sheraton Hotel.  Crossing some really wide avenues, we followed a tree-lined street all the way towards Puerto Madero.  The closer we got, the more familiar it was.  It has been six years since we were here, but back then, we had walked from the pier following the waterfront all of the way.  There were very few people walking here, so it might not be the safest thing to do. 

 

At the entrance of this complex is the yacht club and a series of canals where pleasure boats are moored by the hundreds.   Lining the canals are numerous restaurants and stores, one of which happens to be the Hard Rock Café.    Located by the first gantry crane, we found the café and happily took seats near the window.  It was early lunch time, so it was not too crowded yet.   That would change.  We ordered two draft beers (IPA) and an order of cheese nachos.  The food was served in a timely manner, and we were just digging into it when a party of at least 20 people entered the restaurant.  Naturally, they sat quite near our table.  By judging the group, it appeared there was possibly a bride and groom with extended family in tow.  We felt bad for the younger kids who wiggled in their seats waiting what seemed like forever to be served even their beverages.  Eventually, flatbread pizza, nachos, and more sharable starters were served, making the kids happy.  By the time we left, they still did not have their entrees.  In addition to this group, about all of the inside tables filled with customers.  We added one order of an apple cobbler with Dulce de leche caramel sauce drizzled over a scoop of vanilla ice cream.   Sinful….but so good.  We made one last stop at their shop, buying a city t-shirt.  Lunch set us back 74,900 Argentinian pesos.  OMG that sounded really bad, but doing the math, it computed to a little over $52 USD.  Not bad after all.   The t-shirt was 37,800 pesos or $26.45 with a 10% discount because we wore HRC t-shirts today.   This t-shirt was one of the most affordable ones we have purchased recently.   

 

We had a long walk going back to the bus stop uphill.  Following every mature tree along the way, we stayed in the shade until we reached the Plaza San Martin.  About 20 local buses passed by our waiting group of guests until our shuttle finally arrived.  It took less than 15 minutes to get back to the cruise terminal and another 10 minutes back to the ship. 

 

Captain Rens came on with his departing talk about 5:30pm where he stated the temperature was 76 degrees.  We checked the TV temps and found it was really 82 degrees.    The humidity was 58% with light winds.  We had 147 nautical miles to reach Montevideo tomorrow doing 12.3 knots.  Then he added that the temperature would be less tomorrow with 15 knot winds. 

 

The dining room seemed almost empty, especially deck four.  We bet a lot of folks were on long tours and decided to dine in the Lido instead.  We ordered very lightly this evening, still full from lunch.  Starters were Caesar salads and mains of sliced beef and one pork chop.   We both declined dessert, since we had such a wonderful and filling one at lunch.

 

Tonight's entertainer was Tenna Torres with songs from the 70's to the 90's.  On our way to the front elevator, we could hear the Mix singer, Grace, all the way to the Ocean Bar.   She can really deliver a rousing performance with a powerful voice that travels for miles.  Her audience was really digging it.

 

Tomorrow we will be back in Uruguay, but at the capital, Montevideo.  

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

215 Pictures

Report #23 Thursday, January 22, 2026---Anchored At Punta del Este, Uruguay---8am-4pm--Using Shore & Ship Tenders---Partly Cloudy---72 Degrees--31mph, Winds--78% Humidity----Casual

Uruguay is the country today…..Punta del Este was the port. The population of Uruguay is about 3.3 million people that speak mostly Spanish. The capital is Montevideo, where we will stop on January 24th. 

 

At one time in history, Uruguay was considered the "underdog" between Brazil and Argentina. However, it has come into its own despite being South America's smallest country. Words to describe modern day Uruguay are progressive, stable, safe and sophisticated. There is a lot to see and do for visitors like us.

 

The capital Montevideo is cosmopolitan, while today's port Punta del Este is labeled party- till- you- drop. There is wildlife watching, horseback riding, and beaches galore. It is a city of high rise condos and hotels and is considered one of South America's most glamorous resorts. Celebrities come here for rest, relaxation, and plastic surgery, we understand. 

 

So what's their favorite food here? Various cuts of meat like beef, pork, chorizo, and blood sausage all called asado are on top of the list. How about seaweed fritters called Banuelos de algae? Or a cholesterol bomb of steak sandwiches with bacon, ham, egg, cheese, lettuce, tomato, olives, pickles, and peppers with mayo. Now that's a mouthful. Then wash it down with half and half wine with sparkling wine called medio y medio. 

 

If tours are up your alley, there were a few today. The city tour and Ralli Museum was 3 ½ hours for $60, and the same museum and Casa Pueblo was 4 ½ hours for $80. The city by bike was 3 ½ hours for $120, while a walking tour with lunch was 4 ½ hours for $160. The best of Punta del Este and lunch at a winery was 7 hours and $220 . Pozos Azules Adventure Trek was 7 ½ hours for $250. The most expensive was Alto de la Ballena Winery for 5 ½ hour for $300 which included a BBQ gourmet lunch. 

 

Today was a tender port, with the city providing two large tenders with two of our ship's tenders running all day. We stayed onboard until open tenders were announced, although we could have gone off at any time without tender tickets. Since the boats were loading below our veranda, we could see most of the tour groups going off first. And because we have been here several times on tours, we were on our own today.  

 

We did get on one of the two-level local boats to the marina, where we began our hike. The ride took at least 15 minutes, and since these boats hold more people, it took longer to get onshore. One of the most embarrassing things happened to one of us while boarding this local tender. There was a high step, and by gladly accepting help from the two sailors, my good water bottle holder slipped off of my arm and fell into the drink between the dock and the boat. Oh no…..thank goodness it wasn't me that fell, I told the guys that's OK….let it go. But one of them bent down and scooped it up before it sunk. Normally, I use a holder that goes around my neck, but it is too heavy for a sore neck. Believe me, it will not happen again as I can clip it onto my small purse.  

 

From the looks of the marina, you could tell there are big bucks here by the large number of yachts and sail boats. Many were jammed side-by-side in the marina with people living in them. 

 

We followed the path that took us up and over the peninsula to the Punta del Este Lighthouse with a museum and scenic gardens. Right next to the lighthouse was Iglesia de la Candelaria Catholic Church built in 1911. "Charming" is a good way to describe this church with nice oceanside views. Hiking our way down to the oceanside, we found Englishmen Beach and the wide seaside promenade sidewalk. This wraps around a series of beaches along the Atlantic Ocean, which was full of rocks for the most part. Every spot that could provide a bit of sand was taken up with sunbathers with umbrellas and folding chairs. 

 

We passed by a shrine dedicated to Senora de la Candelaria where Playa El Emir Beach began. More umbrellas, and more locals lined the beach here. Red flags were flying telling the folks there was no diving in the area due to hidden rocks. This did not stop the several brave fellows that were surfing the huge waves. The biggest attraction on this coastline had to be Monumento al Ahogado, a famous sculpture of a hand emerging from the sand. It symbolizes those lost at sea, a very moving remembrance for sure. 

 

It was getting to be time for lunch, so we turned around, crossed the street, and made our way to Gorlero Avenue where we remembered enjoying a good pizza and even better beer. This is Punta del Este's main avenue filled with shopping, cafes, restaurants, and casinos. There are banks, casinos, slot machines, and art galleries on this street. We were afraid the place might be totally full of customers around lunchtime, but we were surprised to find plenty of tables to sit outside on their patio. In Latin America, time is seen differently as far as dining. Everything starts much later in the day, which worked out good for us. 

 

We were seated at a sidewalk table and ordered two draft beers called Patricia. And one of their specialties is pizza….wood-fired pizza. We ordered a medium Hawaiian pizza, mostly because we could understand what was on it as it was written in Spanish. It was cut it four large slices and was just right….good too. After having walked so far, it was nice to relax for an hour or so, watching the foot traffic go by. 

 

Leaving the comfort of the restaurant, we made our way over the peninsula and found the main boardwalk along the river and back to the marina. We happened to see the fish market where the vendors were kicking piles of fish scraps into the water to feed the hungry sea lions. There must have been a half dozen of the large creatures gorging themselves on the easy meal. Perfect timing.

 

One of the larger local boats was loading up, so we headed to it, but found the outside seating was full. If we wanted to go back now, we would have to sit in the cabin of the vessel. Usually, we do not do this, but having no choice, we squeezed into the cabin and waited to leave the marina. The boat was jammed full of guests by the time they left. If for any reason this vessel flipped over, we would never get out. Yes there were plenty of life vests, but they were all wrapped in plastic and secured under the seating with netting. Good luck with that. 

 

The ride seemed to take forever as it went very slowly against the wind. We were safely back onboard by 3pm. The ship left by 5pm well after the captain's daily talk. He said we have 179 nautical miles to reach Buenos Aires tomorrow morning, sailing in 30 knot winds and 3-foot swells. He predicted the winds would die down to 17 knots once we got further up the river, and the temperature would be a pleasant 73 degrees. We would have mostly sun, but some clouds as well. No rain. 

 

Working on photos was going to take forever, as a lot were snapped along the way. Dinnertime had some "comfort" items such as beef empanadas, salads, and mains of bacon and cheese-wrapped meatloaf with mashed potatoes and gravy on the side. There was also prime rib, but the meatloaf was way better. Only one of us had dessert of watermelon slices.

 

Showtime featured a singer, Marty Thomas, a Broadway veteran and recording artist. Classic rock was his specialty.

 

Tomorrow will be another big day in beautiful Buenos Aires….we will need our beauty sleep for that one.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

350 Pictures

Report # 22 Wednesday, January 21, 2026-----Sea Day #2 Of 2 Enroute To Punta del Este, Uruguay----Mostly Sunny---72 Degrees--5' Swell----Not As Rough---54% Humidity----12mph Winds----Casual Dress

We had a nice day at sea without the deep swells we had yesterday.  There was some motion with pitching, but not so bad you couldn't walk.  In addition, there was a definite drop in the temperature as well as the humidity.  The temps were 70 degrees and humidity was 51% at 10am.  Winds were 9 mph and the skies were clear with a few clouds later in the day.  Sea swells were five feet according to Captain Rens.  During his talk, he mentioned we were 250 nautical miles from our next port of Punta Del Este, Uruguay, and the ship was doing 14 kts. 

 

Tomorrow's port will requite tendering and we will be using two local boats that hold more guests.  Also, we will have two of our tenders transporting the folks too.  The Captain warned that it may be windy, and we all needed to be careful with the tendering process.   He ended his talk telling us that some whales had been spotted earlier in the morning.  Sorry we missed that, although we suspect they were far in the distance.  

 

There was a port talk at 2pm with info on Punta del Este, Buenos Aires, and Montevideo.  Why all three ports, we don't know.  Right now it is 10pm, and we are still searching for the lecture on our TV.  It is a mystery why they are doing these talks so close to the actual port days.   If their intention is to sell more excursions, they are missing the boat. 

 

There are two speakers onboard.  One was Dr. Michael Douglas (not the actor) with a talk on the Antarctic Environment at 11am.  The next speaker was Dr. Jim Jacobs speaking about the geology and micro brews of Brazil, Argentina, and Chile. 

 

There were three sessions of water coloring and a one hour session for the craft workshop at 2:30pm.  

 

We did take the time to go to the Sea View Pool and get some sun.  Today two waiters came over and offered us beverages, which was nice.  They were intrigued with Bill's t-shirt which was from the Philippines over 10 years ago.  It had the MS Amsterdam  on the front and the map of the Philippines on the back.  Of course, the waiters were both from Manila and loved the shirt.  Bill has another one printed with the officers and crew on the back from the 2014 Grand World Voyage. On another note Bill did get a few pictures of an Albatross. 

 

Dinner choices were  not too exciting tonight.   We both ordered the shrimp appetizer, always good, and one salad and a bowl of chicken soup.  Entrees were one Peruvian chicken (spicy) and one lamb loin wrapped in filo dough with chopped spinach under the dough.  Neither of us cares a whole lot for cooked spinach, and there was no mention of it on the menu.   We think our waiter will be more informative because we should have told him our preferences.    Now he knows.  Desserts were a strawberry tart and a sliced banana with a little chocolate sauce. 

 

There was a show by the World Stage Cast with Solid Gold and songs from the 70's.  A movie was shown in the Wajang -  Alive.  

 

Looks like we are in for some weather tomorrow and no mention of rain.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

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Report # 21 Tuesday, January 20, 2026-----Sea Day #1 Of 2 Enroute To Punta del Este, Uruguay----Mostly Sunny---73 Degrees---12' Swell----Rough---54% Humidity----16mph Winds----Formal Dress

The seas got rougher through the night, which is not what we had hoped for.  For some reason, one of us does not have the "sea legs"  to weather the motion of the ocean.  Good thing there are seasick pills because one of us had to take some today.  By the way, it worked.

 

When we left the Pinnacle after another nice breakfast, we stopped to talk to our hosts Cyndi and Pat, who are set up outside the Wajang Theater.  They had gifts for us.  We each got a tiny light that was attached with a clip to read books at night.  That will be most useful even at home.  Then when we got back to our room, the dreaded fan was running full blast once again, drying out the carpet.  This makes 16 days of wet carpet so far.  Another room further up our hallway has had the same problem according to hotel manager Glenn.  In fact, he discovered a leak outside his office and now has buckets and dryers there like us.  His replacement manager, Florin, boarded in Rio, so they hope to resolve the source of the leak soon. 

 

We had so much computer work, it took most of the day to do.  While one of us caught up on reports, the other took a long walk on the closed  promenade deck.   The rolling of the ship made walking difficult if not dangerous.  Glad I stayed behind.  Honestly, attempting to walk with the ship moving like this causes more tweaking of the joints, especially your knees.  Much better to wait until it calms down.  Perhaps that is why some people like to go to the gym instead. 

 

Captain Rens came on with his talk saying that the seas were rough.  Duh…  We have 650 nautical miles to reach Punta Del Este, Uruguay in two days.  It will take a speed of 15 knots in seas with swells of 9 feet.  He suspected the waves will calm down, but we don't believe it.  He cautioned all to be careful inside and outside.  The temperature was a much cooler 73 degrees with partly cloudy skies.  No rain.  And the humidity dropped to 54%, a noticeable difference and much more comfortable.    It almost got chilly sitting outside on the veranda. 

 

This evening was formal with a theme of The Great Gatsby.   Guests were invited to dress the part with feathers and headbands.  The real festivities began at 8:30pm in the Crow's Nest.  They promised a night of jazz, libations, and dancing with Roaring Twenty's tunes with the Dam Band.  We often wondered if everyone chose to go there, where would they put them all?    Not a problem for us, we were still eating dinner at that starting time.  The menu was supposed to be formal, but from what we saw, not much was fancy about it.  We used to see caviar on toast points or escargots.  We have yet to see either of those on the starter menu yet.  They did have bacon-wrapped scallops, which one of us tried.  We both had Caesar salads and one of us had the chicken soup.  The choice of soup happens to be better when you are a little seasick.  Our entrees were the tiny lamb chops, but with the salmon sides of green beans, carrots, and rice pilaf.  Rack of lamb might have been better, but lamb was still the better choice.  Their featured main was polenta and cheddar crisps, a vegetarian choice.  A new addition?  Only one of us had dessert of a lemon tulip, which was a drop of lemon meringue filling in the center of a filo dough crust.   If we went to the Crow's Nest, we could have had the chocolate surprise.  Nothing more is said because then, it would not be a surprise.   One of us steers clear of anything chocolate at dinnertime because it causes insomnia sometimes.

 

There was a singer performing in the World Stage by the name of Tenna Torres with "Soul Serenade".    And  a movie was shown in the Wajang – Wolfs. 

 

One more lazy day at sea before we reach Uruguay.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

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Report #20 Monday, January 19, 2026---Day #2 In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil----All Aboard 4:30pm----Cloudy With Rain Showers In The Afternoon----90 Degrees----Casual Dress

Well, today in Rio was a sharp contrast from what we experienced yesterday.  Sunday was full of excitement with the Carnaval practicing and the Costa guests coming and going all day.  Despite many venues being closed,  the streets were alive with the excitement of music and dancing.  Today, a Monday, the streets were about vacant, and it was back to work for the adults and back to school for the kids, we think. 

 

At breakfast, we heard that there was competition with the music from the Costa ship and the Dinner Under the Stars, which took place at the Seaview Pool.  Each one may have tried to outdo the other until the Costa ship left the dock at 9pm.    Then all was quiet and the dinner outside was a success.  Lucky for them, it did not rain.

 

There were a few tours offered today, one of which was a 3 day 2-night trip to Iguazu Falls for $4500 (double).  Years ago (2003) while on a Radisson cruise, we did that tour in one day, flying from Buenos Aires in a corporate jet with a small group of guests.   What a thrill that was and we did it all for $700 per person.    The other excursions included a ride to the Tijuca Rainforest in a 4WD for 4 hours and $115.  A street food, art, and beach tour was 6 hours and $180. 

 

After working online for a few hours after breakfast, we left the ship by 10am.  Even though it was overcast and cloudy, the temperature was 90 degrees.   And very little breeze.  We headed for the Museum of Tomorrow which we knew would be opened today.  Along the way, we ran into folks we know who said they did walk around the outside today, but did not go in.   Then we saw Jo who had just left there.  She recommended we go inside mostly because seniors were free today.   Well that works for us.

 

What we did not know was that we still had to get tickets.  Locating the elevator, we went to the line to enter the museum on the second floor.  That's when we learned we needed the "free" tickets to go inside.  OK.   Back down the elevator, we went to the line where only kiosks gave out tickets.  Everything was written in Portuguese.   Now what?  At the very end line, we had help from a worker there who spoke English.  He smiled and said every day was free for seniors.   And he did not need proof.  He worked the kiosk and came out with two complimentary tickets to use on the second level.   At the ticket scan, the fellow handed us credit card sized cards to activate some of the displays.  As spacious as this museum is, some of the venues were tight with space.  And dark.  The first place we entered had info on what the museum was about.  Basically, it was about the direction they felt the world was going with population and dwindling resources.   In many ways, it gave us something to think about, even if we did not agree 100% of what they suggested. 

 

We saw how wind works, how the animal world evolved over the millennium, and the numerous various religions around the world.  It would have been nice if there was more space in these individual displays, especially the ones that were in the dark.  There were several little kids running around, so we did not last long in some of the venues.  The best exhibit was one with several screens with very high videos showing different aspects of nature and various people of the earth.  In the center of this room was a round couch where people with kids were laying down and looking up at the moving screens.  It kind of had a mesmerizing feel to it, and we felt more comfortable standing against a wall.  The underlying message to this display was a lesson in saving what we have left on this planet.   That could not be duplicated anywhere else, so we exited down a ramp to the main level.  Glad we took the time to see this museum, we took a walk all the way around the ponds.

 

We did make a sweep past the one restaurant there at the far end, but it was full of guests, and probably not our choice of cuisine.   The views from these 30,000 square meters of gardens, water mirrors, bike paths, and a leisure area were wonderful.  This museum was inaugurated in 2015 and has since been awarded with the title "Leading Culture Destinations Awards" in the category of best Museum of the year in South and Central America.   A few more interesting facts are that the "ribs" of the outside are actually solar panels that move with the sun.   And the entire museum is cooled by the waters of the bay filtered through the ponds surrounding the complex.  Pretty cool. 

 

We were very curious about the line of locals we saw today and yesterday waiting outside a building for the large strapped Styrofoam boxes we saw the vendors packing.  Most all of these vendors come from the Favelas (like shanty communities) and are called Ambulantes.  Currently, there are 15,000 of these independent vendors that sell beverages to the tourists and the Carnaval marchers.  They buy the bottled water, sodas, and beer from a discounted company, then sell their products all throughout town.  They pay rent to store their carts at one of the warehouses, then walk them to wherever they are selling.  It might be as far as Ipanema or Copacabana Beaches.  We watched a video of one such local vendor who took us through a day in his life as an Ambulante.  He was able to support his wife and two young children with this job.   At one point at the beginning of his day, he fills his water bottle at a local market.  We hope the bottles he sells were sealed, but who knows?  While in Mexico, we actually saw vendors filling water bottles from a hose behind a hotel and sealing the caps with a special heated tool.  Yikes!

 

All aboard was 4:30pm, so we headed back checking out the stalls along the way outside the terminal as well as inside.  There was absolutely nothing we needed, except for some ice cold soda we had waiting in our refrigerator onboard.    Inside the terminal, we had to go through their xray before we were allowed back on the ship.  That saved a lot of time for security on the ship. 

 

We were back before 3pm, and working on photos and reports until sail away time.  We were in our room no longer than 2 minutes, when the sky opened up and it rained pretty good.  Perfect timing as we had not brought umbrellas with us today.   Captain Rens came on with his talk at 4:45pm, and reported that we were waiting for the pilot to board.  The ship pulled away from the dock by 5pm, and we were on our way towards Uruguay.  We will have 975 nautical miles to reach Punta del Este in a couple of days.    The Captain expected a six foot sea swell with some motion of the ocean with partly cloudy weather tomorrow. 

 

Also, when we got back to our room, guess what was waiting for us?  Yep, the dreaded fan was running full blast to dry out the wet carpet once again.   Two plumbers were working in the hall closet where we could see leaking pipes and a wet rusted floor.  Will this never end???    

 

Dinner was interesting tonight with a visit from the Maitre'd, who we have not had the pleasure of meeting.  His name is Azhar and has worked for HAL for several years.  While talking to us, he created a puppy in the form of origami.   That is a trick we have not seen waiters do for years now.  Azhar did cheat a bit by using tape, but it's the thought that counts right?    He asked if we wished for a host on tomorrow's formal evening, but we said thanks, but we are happy with our table for two.  Sometimes a "put-together" table with unknown guests can be one long evening.  Especially for those of us that do not drink the wine.  That seems to extend the dining time by an extra hour.  So many people were demanding a host or officer that he had to tell them his priority were the disembarking guests in San Antonio, Chile.  He would get to the rest in due time.  Bet he was glad we declined the offer.

 

Starters for us were one shrimp cocktail, a Caesar salad, and an arancini plate.  One of us enjoys the room service chicken noodle soup, so that was another starter.  One  main course was breaded chicken with sauteed mushrooms, smashed garlic potatoes, and bearnaise sauce.   The other meal was a vegetarian enchilada with salsa, beans and cheese.  Spicy, but good.  Dessert was one slice of chocolate cake and one plate of sliced pineapple. 

 

The World Stage hosted a singer by the name of Marty Thomas with Give My Regards to Broadway tunes.  The alternate movie was The Secret Life of Walter Mitty at 8:30pm. 

 

After two busy days in Rio, most everyone was ready to turn in early.    We sure were…..

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

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