Well, we are in the Falkland Islands today, a British Overseas Territory, with a total of 700 islands. Only 11 of them are permanently inhabited. The total population the last we checked was about 4000 people, 2/3 of which live in the capital of Stanley. It is home to an unimaginable number of penguins, waterbirds, sea lions and elephant seals, lots of sheep and a few humans.
Known as Isla Malvinas in Argentina, that same country invaded these islands in 1982 to regain control from England. They lost and England won, although there were casualties on both sides. Today, these islands are visited by many expedition and cruise ships when the weather co-operates. Tourists can see the many sights of bays, inlets, estuaries and sandy beaches, some of which still contain hidden land mines. Often spotted are crested caracaras, cormorants, oystercatchers, snowy sheathbills and a bunch of penguins. Petrel, albatrosses, geese, flightless steamer ducks, and gulls are seen in many parts of the islands.
Larger animals include sea lions, elephant and fur seals, 5 species of dolphins and killer whales. Humpback whales are seen during the migration season. If we do make it there, we will see metal-clad houses, and pubs where one can down a pint or two with some fish and chips, the most popular dish on the island. Fresh fish and lamb are also on that list.
The ship arrived quite early to the harbor with temperatures in the low 50's, 76% humidity, 9 mph winds and clear blue skies. Very cool, but at least the worst of the swells and high winds were gone from last night. Or at least we thought the winds had died down. Sailing into Stanley Harbour was very scenic under such clear blue skies as we watched from our veranda. Although it was quite a distance, one of us was able to get pictures of Gypsy Cove and Yorke Bay where many Magellanic penguins were making their way from their hillside burrows to the sandy beaches below. On the smaller end the penguin family, these birds make a braying sound that sounds like the jackass (donkey) braying. Thus, they have been nicknamed jackass penguins.
We waited until close to 10am before heading for deck 4 and our meeting point to go to the tender platform. Kumar radioed ahead and we went directly down to deck one, then into the elevator to deck A. The elevator monitor checked our room keys and saw the President's Club sign on them, giving us an instant OK to go. Jonah was there and said to go ahead on the next tenderboat. Boarding was fine, since the winds were not that bad yet. The ride took about 15 minutes to the Tender Arrival/Departure dock and the very nice Visitor Center. While there, we found a bunch of most useful maps and brochures to take.
Although we had not figured out a set plan for today's visit, we knew we did not need a ship's tour. And recalling there was not a whole lot to see in the town, we decided to take the coach ride to the Gypsy Cove Nature Trail. The price was right at $10 USD each for a round trip ride. A wristband was given to us to identify us as paid passengers. Other excursions sold on the ship were Stanley on foot for 2 ½ hours and $80. Also affordable was Stanley highlites for 2 ½ hours and $90. A bird safari and nature trek was 3 ½ hours for $120, while a tour of the battlefields was 3 hours and $120. Stanley Heritage and wildlife was 3 ½ hours for $130. Fitzroy farms was 5 hours and $160 and Joe's gentoo penguins was 2 ½ hours for $200. Bluff Cove penguin rookery was 3 ½ hours for $220. Bertha's Beach & wildlife was 5 hours and $210 and two of the most expensive excursions were Seal Bay wildlife for 7 ½ hours for $430 with a bag lunch, and another long tour was Volunteer Point king penguin rookery for 7 ½ hours and also $430 with a box lunch. On past visits here we took the long tour to Fitzroy farms with a very long and rough ride going and coming back. A one-time excursion for us.
The coach ride turned out to be a double-decker bus with just the two of us and another couple in the upper bus at the front windows. Wow, what a view we had on mostly paved roads passing the homes, cemetery, supermarket and eventually the airport. Very few locals were out and about, except for the road workers. There were birds everywhere such as the local vultures, possibly caracaras, endemic ducks, upland geese, gulls, and possibly some black-browed albatross. After a ride that took us around the cove and over the hills, we arrived to Gypsy Cove. Since we were here last, they have built a convenient restroom and shelter with benches. Across the road which dead-ended here, there was a well-marked and roped off path that led to some of the most beautiful views of the bays below. There were at least three park rangers or docents who warned us all not to leave the roped-off paths since this was an area where the Argentinian army left several land mines during the war in 1982. An interesting fact we learned was that the penguins were not large enough to set off a land mine, but a human definitely would trigger it.
From two viewing platforms, we could see the white sand beaches below in Yorke Bay and Gypsy Cove. The penguin numbers were small, like we saw a total of a dozen. But the ranger said many more would come out around 3pm. We were also told that the Magellanic penguins were molting now, and they tend to stay inside their burrows in the sandy slopes. They are also more vulnerable to attacks from sea lions during this period, so they tend to feed closer to the shoreline. We did get a chance to see two young and fluffy chicks in a nest near the trail, which we never would have seen if the ranger did not point them out to all of us.
The long and rocky trail split at the end where the platforms were. So one of us took the harder walk over the top of the ridge, while the other one of us went back the same way, even though that trail was rocky and uneven. This path led to Ordinance Point where he spotted WW II artillery and gun placements and more good signage. The path led to scrubland with natural occurring plants that included the diddle dee shrub, a bush that produces a bitter-sweet tiny berry that birds thrive on. Locals use the berries to make a sweet jam using plenty of sugar to cut the bitterness. A small 2-ounce jar of this jam sold for under 3 British pounds back in town.
Forgot to mention this, but we had walked over a mat that had been soaked with a disinfectant to prevent avian bird flu that has popped up here and even in Antarctica. Also, the signage along this trail was wonderful, pointing out everything we were seeing. That included the wildlife, but also the indigenous grasses that dot the sandy slopes which become home to these penguins. One unusual fact is that these borrows are infested with fleas from the birds.
We met back up at the restrooms and sat in the sun until the coach arrived. The buses were running every ½ hour. Protected from the worst of the winds, we gladly sat there watching the scenery and breathing the cool fresh unpolluted air. Time to go, we rode the bus with only the two of us. We passed by the airport and around the Whalebone Cove where a rusted old vessel was left to decay. The name was the Lady Elizabeth Shipwreck. There was no commentary by the driver, but we were happy that his concentration was on the narrow road with hairpin turns. Being a British territory, we were still put off by the traffic on the "wrong" side of the road. Of course, they would insist our traffic patterns were incorrect. We were back to the visitors center in time for a walk through town and possibly lunch.
Although we have visited here several times, we never did see much of the town. It is more like a village with shops, cafes, and bars looking more like houses. Things are basic here and not "touristy". We have to mention that the wind had picked up significantly and was blowing cross the waterside road. We even got splashed walking here. Climbing a steep side street, we found we had left most of the sites back on the main street. So we headed back down to Ross Road and Christ Church Cathedral, and Anglican church, actually the most southerly Anglican cathedral in the world. It was built in 1892 and houses a monument of four blue whale jaw bones formed in an arch. It was constructed in 1933 to mark the 100 year anniversary of British administration in the Falklands.
We did not have to go far to pass more icons such as Victory Green with ship relics, rows of barrack houses, a police station and prison, a bank and perhaps a few shops. That's when we came across Martha and Bob who had finished their tour and were dropped off at the Malvina Hotel, the largest hotel in town. They had must come from a nice lunch there and said they had pizza. OK, we shall give it a try, even if the steps were steep at the entrance. The hotel was nice inside, but we were a bit disappointed with their beer. Brewed locally, we had a blonde draft brew, but it was served room temperature with very little effervescence. It was more like a light wine, and nowhere near to the ice-cold beers we know. The margherita pizza looked better than it tasted, since the crust appeared to be one of the frozen type. We did have a nice corner table with a good view of the harbor. They did not accept Am Ex, so we paid cash in US dollars. Being a British territory, they are on the British pound sterling rate, which is not the best for the US dollar. However, you never know until you take a chance and try something new. Nine times out of ten, we get a winner.
Right near the hotel was the Margaret Thatcher Memorial and Liberation Monument commemorating the War of 1982. Above the memorial was the local hospital. The winds had gotten much stronger, so we decided to go back to the tender landing. It was 3pm, and we needed to get back by 4:30pm at the latest. A line was quickly forming and we did see one tender about to leave. Or was it? For some unknown reason, the boat driver was having a hard time getting the boat to go forward in the driving current, deep swells, and waves beating it. They were able to get the boat alongside and tie it down, taking several men to do it. All of the guests were taken off (hopefully before seasickness set in) and led to another waiting boat. Our group went next and instantly we knew we were in for a "thrilling" ride, just as friends Pauline and Mike warned us since they were here two days ago on the Oosterdam.
The currents and swells were so strong, at times we felt like we were in a submarine as the waves splashed over the boat from all sides. There was cheering from the crew members sharing the ride back, but also screaming from some of the guests. Seawater came through the opening and got some folks wet. Yep, it was quite a ride to remember but we did get back to the ship and boarded safely. The Captain, Florin, and Kumar were there to assist the guests with mobility problems, and there were plenty of them. We were back by 4pm, but there were still three more tenders to come back. That did not happen until closer to 6pm.
The tender were being lifted as the Captain came on with his talk. He highly praised his officers and crew for their excellent help with today's tendering. Honestly, we think other Captains would have cancelled the stop. He predicted swells up to 15 feet as we sail towards Elephant Island in Antarctica. He emphasized the need for all to be careful as well as stashing anything breakable on the floor. I addition, he said to watch your fingers with closing bathroom doors. Guess there have been some finger injuries with some guests. Keeping the bathroom door opened especially during the night would solve that problem. Tomorrow's winds were predicted to be 38 knots and 41 degree temps.
Dinner was good with Caesar salads, a savory navy bean soup, brie starters followed by a lamb entree and a cannelloni plate. Dessert was one tiny custard and one plate of sliced pineapple. No show for us as we were totally exhausted. What an exhilarating day.
Bill & Mary Ann
