As we have mentioned, today should have been a visit to Fanning Island, Kiribati, but due to technical problems with the ship, it had to be cancelled. For those who have never been there, it is a place like no other in that it has remained the same as it has for a very long time.....primitive. Most of the villagers live in makeshift housing with shared facilities for cooking and cleaning. Power is supplied by generators. We never asked, but we think there is no sewer system, but there is fresh water from a massive lagoon and rainwater collectors. Historically, seaweed and salt production took place here as well as harvesting the coconut palms. Fishing is a lifeline here.
During the day when we visited, we seldom saw any local men between 20 and 50. They are out working for the day, leaving the women and children in the village to do the rest of the work. Besides preparing meals, they tend the chickens and pigs and do the laundry by hand. Everything is line dried. In their spare time, they keep busy making shell beaded jewelry to sell to the tourists like us. For the men among us, they like the shark tooth wooden carved knives.
Their activities seem to revolve around school and church which is typical for island nations such as this one.
Some of the guests from cruise ships like to bring gifts for them, mostly for the younger set. Useful things like school supplies, books, or even coloring books. Crayons are discouraged since they tend to melt in the heat of the tropics. Basic health supplies are good such as toothbrushes and toothpaste, band aids, combs, and cosmetics for the teenage group and shampoos and soaps. Trinkets that can be purchased online are popular with the little ones. The only problem that arises is having enough for everyone. On our last couple of stops here, the guests were requested not to hand out anything personally but give it to the officers who see it goes to the right place. And in exchange for fresh coconuts, basic food supplies are trading with the natives. That might include staples such as flour, sugar, dried eggs and milk. The locals elders would not turn down a bottle or two of whiskey. The islanders are subsidized by another country, but we have forgotten who. At the very least, all of us were informed of the cancellation well before this 35-day cruise commenced, and people left the donations home.
Captain Thomas came on with his update right on the dot. He said we had crossed the Equator at exactly 9:27am and are now sailing in the southern hemisphere. The temperature was a steady 84 degrees, with 70% humidity and light winds of 4.3 mph. There was a 7-foot swell and the ship was doing 14 knots. The Zaandam has sailed 1260 nautical miles from Kona and has another 883 nautical miles to go to reach Rangiroa. The skies were partly cloudy and sunset will be 5:54pm and sunrise at 5:37am. The days at the Equator are near to half and half.....half daylight, and half nighttime.
We asked for our last bouquet to be re-done with a flat bottom container with Styrofoam instead of in a vase. The flowers seem to keep much longer without the skunky water of a vase. And less likely to fall over in rough seas.
The other job of the day was to turn in the passports for inspection with the local French Polynesian authorities. They will be processed and returned by November 3rd. We will not have to pack them with us when we go ashore.
We had a light room service lunch and even a nicer walk on the promenade deck, where most every teak lounge was occupied. Going to deck six forward, one of us filmed another sunset as well as the birds that have come back to roost on the flagpole. Guess they are in for another night of rocking and rolling.
Dinner had limited choices, which happens sometimes. We both ordered the chicken empanadas, and one different salad. The entrees were one cheese ravioli plate and one tenderloin steak with steak fries, the almost everyday alternate. It wasn't bad at all.....tasty and tender. Desserts were one scoop of coffee fudge ice cream, and one slice of lemon meringue cheesecake....also pretty good. And we must mention the appearance of brand-new salt and pepper shakers in the dining room. Gone are the grinders that often did not work. The new metal ones are cylinder-shaped filled with granulated salt and pepper with the letters "S" and "P" holes stamped on the tops. Thank you HAL. Now we just have to work on replacing those old French onion soup urns.....
Showtime featured the singers and dancers with "Drive In" - music from the movies. Did we mention that Elliot Finkel, the accomplished piano player, is onboard? He gave an afternoon double-header concert yesterday afternoon. He always "wows" the crowd.
Bill & Mary Ann
