Funchal is the capital of the island of Madeira, which is part of the country of Portugal. The population of Portugal, including these islands, is 10,708,000 natives that speak Portuguese and Mirandese. Portugal is known for palm trees, plazas, bright-colored houses, and ivory white domes. The streets of the cities are filled with cobblestone lanes, complete with boutiques, bars, and restaurants. You will also find medieval castles, white-washed villages, wine estates, and cork groves. There are granite peaks, lush inner valleys, and virgin forests. The people are exuberant, family-oriented, and passionate about food. Right up our alley…..
The best time to visit is from March to June, then September. If you want to bake in the sun, come in July and August….sizzling.
Things to see are Lisbon's Castelo de Sao Jorge, Torre de Belem – the famous iconic monument in Lisbon, as well as modern art and Moorish architecture. Palaces in Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the walled 14th century Evora.
Things to do include discovering boutiques in dusty alleys with bars, restaurants, and clubs in cool Lisbon. Or see Moorish old timer Alfama in Lisbon. See the dramatic cliffs, scalloped bays, and gold sand beaches on the Algarve. Or tour a port wine lodge in Porto and hike rugged peaks in Parque National de Peneda-Gieres.
How about the food? Eat caldeirada, a seafood stew, or cataplana, a seafood and rice stewed in a copper pot. Drink lots of wine with your meals such as a vintage port from Douro Valley.
Trademarks are fado? (not sure what that is??), football (Ronaldo, who we saw today at C7 in Funchal), salted cod, cork, and wine (Madeira wine).
An old Portuguese saying about four of the largest cities is: Porto works, Coimbra studies, Braga prays, and Lisbon plays.
Finally, Funchal is an island of Madeira and is located north of the Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean. A year-round resort, this island first settled with Portuguese citizens in the 15th century. These days, Funchal welcomes more cruise ships that any other port in Portugal, or in the other archipelago of the Azores. More than one million tourists visit here annually. And we are happy to be in those numbers.
Madeira happens to be volcanic with the last recorded eruption 6000 years ago. Because it is volcanic, it has the best growing conditions for growing wine grapes, among other produce.
We hear that if you visit here during New Year's Day, you will treated to the largest fireworks show in the world, making the 2006 Guiness World Records. There is a slogan adopted by the citizens: Madeira is gold…it's sea, nature, silence, hospitality. It's blue, a source of energy that never runs out 365 days a year. And according to the World Travel Awards in 2015, Madeira is considered to be the world's leading island destination.
Tours offered here today were a drive to see Cabo Girao at 1902 feet high – the tallest sea cliff in Europe, and the second largest in the world. Camara de Lobos is the fishing village where Winston Churchill spent a lot of time relaxing and painting. Funchal's Botanic Gardens contain over 2000 plants with spectacular views of Funchal. A drive to Pico do Arieiro at 5937 feet in elevation is thrilling, while a visit to Monte Village is a must. There is an exciting toboggan sleigh ride in traditional basket sledges that dates back to the early 1800's. Back then it was a quick transport for the workers to the port. There are two runners dressed in white that drive the sleigh, wearing "straw boaters" (traditional hats) for a 2 kilometer, 10 minute ride with speeds that can exceed 30 kilometers per hour. It was so fun, we did it twice over the years. There is a cable car ride up to Monte, a trip through Farmer's Market, and a tour of the city center. And also wine tasting. The tours run from 3 ½ to 7 ½ hours for $55 to $130 per person.
What did we do? Well, none of the above, since we have done it all several times over the years.
After breakfast, we got off of the ship by 10am. The weather seemed about perfect, with the sun mostly out. It was also humid, which was probably due to the damp fog that kept creeping over the tops of the cliffs. Although there was a complimentary shuttle to the downtown area, we have always walked from the ship to town and back. We would do the same today.
We were the only cruise ship in port today, although there was the local ferry that we always see here. This was nice, because the city did not seem over-crowded today. We made our way out of the terminal, were handed excellent maps, then walked the water front towards the avenue along the sea. Passing the marina, we noticed that there were gelaterias, restaurants, and harbor boat rides. Nothing was opened yet, but the prices and times for the dolphin-watching boats and catamarans were 25 to 30 euro for 2 ½ to 3 hour tours. Seem to recall that we did see dolphins on our way out of the harbor last year.
The two hop on, hop off buses were accessed at the marina also. The tickets for these rides were 15 to 20 euro, and 13 to 22 euro, depending on the route you wished to take. In this town, theses buses are a really good way to go. Running into friends, 90 plus year old Eddie and Lee, they told us they had taken the free shuttle, then walked all this way to find the large veggie and fish market. But first, Eddie asked us to take their picture with his cameras. Besides a cell phone, and a small camera, Eddie uses an ipad. Since we don't own one, it is difficult for us to see the screen or the button to push. Lee always laughs because she admits she does not like it, nor does she know how to use it. Ending up using their cellphone, we were successful in getting the perfect picture of them. Later on, we did run into them at the Farmers Market.
Continuing on or way, we ended up at Plaza do Povo where there is room for special events, we are guessing.
The next landmark was Plaza da Autonomia and the river outlet. Near this is a small and large rocky beach, where sunbathers and a few swimmers were enjoying what there was of the morning sun. There is no way that laying on those rocks is comfortable, unless you are a lizard heating up for the day.
A better choice of activities has to be the cable car or Teleferico that takes the visitors up to the village of Monte, 1800 feet above the sea. The cost of a one way ride is 11 euro, while a round trip adventure is 16 euro. Usually there is a long line to get tickets, but today, it looked like you could walk right into their base station, and get right on. We have taken this ride, as well as the one that starts at the Botanic Gardens….both are really thrilling.
Continuing on, we ended up at the Forte de San Tiago, where it costs 3 euro to tour. Frankly, most of the best photos are taken from the outside. There is a little swim club here, and a few brave locals were swimming in the boat launch marina. They certainly are a hearty breed of people. Next to the mustard-colored fort is Restaurante do Forte, a ship-recommended upscale dining in the Old Town.
This led us to the Socorro area, Old Town, where between tiny cafes and shops, there are painted doors reminiscent of the past. Checking the menus at the cafes, we found that besides Portuguese entrees, there were many pizza places. Little was open this early, but it is always on option to remember.
We back-tracked to the Mercado dos Lavrodores or the Farmers Market. It is housed in a two story building with a central patio full of flowers, veggies, and the chance to buy seeds, bulbs, and flowers native to Madeira. Many of the varieties of protea, bird of paradise, and hydrangeas are grown and sold here. The only problem for us is that we are forbidden to bring these items back to the USA. Packages seeds are OK to bring, but we have never had any success in getting anything to germinate at home. Best to only take photos.
We headed directly downstairs to see the working fish market, but only for as long as we could take the smell. Among the large fish like tuna, swordfish, and shark, there are some unique eels and long fish that we only see here in the Madeira Islands. One such creature is the marbled moray eel at 31 inches long, or the black scabbard fish, also long and skinny with black skin and tiny sharp teeth. You would not want to be swimming in the waters they inhabit.
Going up to the second level, we found more unusual fruit as well as the typical fruit we have at home. They are big into peppers here, many of them dried and hanging in bunches tied with string. Garlic too. The vendors offer tasting of some of the local fruit up here. One of the questionable tastings was of a blossom of a philodendron, a houseplant where we come from. Something that looked just like an orange, contained a seedy creamy substance. They also grow noni fruit, touted to be the cure-all for about everything. A better bet, was purchasing one Madeira t-shirt with blue hydrangeas on the front. Wanting to clean out a purse-full of change, the vendor was happy to take it, even though I was one cent short of her price. She simply said obrigado, as she handed the bag over. Of course, that is thank you in Portuguese.
Going out of this market, we followed the street that took us past shops, boutiques, cafes, and bakeries. This avenue was most crowded. We ran into Jane and Bill, who had just done the toboggan ride down the hillside. Showing us the photo they bought, it sure looked like they had their thrill of the day. Resembles the same photo we bought ten years ago doing the very same thing. Too bad this couple are not coming back on another world cruise, as they are so much fun.
Continuing on, we spotted Handler sitting on a bench, people-watching, while he waited for his wife, Leslie, who probably was shopping. He was happy to be relaxing in such a busy place, which is nice.
From here, we made our way to the Municipal Garden, a smaller complex than some of the upper gardens, but nice since most of the trees are very old growth. "Sticky" people (tour folks from the ship) were wandering around here, as it is a stop on one of the tours.
Going around the Rotunda do Infante, a beautiful fountain roundabout, we hiked uphill to the multi-level Santa Catarina Park. It is beautiful up here with spacious lawns, swan ponds, huge trees, ending in the official residence of the President at Quinta Vigia. Today, the guard said tickets were needed to go inside the gates. Last year, we were welcomed to walk the grounds with no fee.
Further up this hill is the huge Casino that overlooks the harbor. Near here is a narrow little street that led down to our lunch venue at Casa Velha. After hiking for three hours, we were so happy to find this café uncrowded and about hidden from the huge crowds. They had patio dining, surrounded by gardens of palms, ferns, and banana trees. We ordered local beer with a chicken salad and Bolognese spaghetti, served with garlic bread. We shared on dessert of an almond pastry, a moist, nutty, cake topped with a very creamy vanilla ice cream. All excellent. A group of 20 year olds joined us on the patio to enjoy omelettes. No pizza here, as their menu was very Mediterranean.
Leaving around 2pm, we found our way back downhill, passing a tiny chapel called Chapel da Penha de France. The street was so narrow that we had to duck inside the church gate for the cars to go by. And they do not slow down, even going down extremely narrow steep cobbled streets.
There was an impossibly steep street where the sidewalk turned into stairs with a railing, thank goodness. As we came down at the bottom, a group of our crew took the steps two at a time, getting to the top in less than 30 seconds. Oh, we remember the days we could do that…..
It was a short hike back to the ship from here, but we still had some change from lunch to spend…..4.40 euro. So a tiny denim purse was negotiated at the last kiosk before we boarded the ship. Running into Woody and Susie, we thanked them for the gift of a custom-painted birthday card Susie had painted in watercolors class. We have a collection of three other cards she has gifted us over several years, and now we have a new one to add to the group. Sweet.
Of course, we worked on pictures and putting together the last details of the report for Funchal. Where has all this time gone??? We did go out for an hour to see the dolphin-watching boats come back into the harbor, as well as watch the gulls and terns as they dove for rolls or buns that people were throwing from the aft deck or their balconies. Probably not the best thing to feed them, as it can eventually kill them as the bread swells in their crops. Most folks do not know that.
Sail away came upon us quickly, and we barely made it to deck nine as the ship pulled away from the pier. Even though there was no "party" at the aft pool, many folks were there today in hopes of seeing some dolphins. For the first time in over 100 days, Barb joined us at the railing. She brought us luck….we saw dolphins jumping in the wake, the same as last year. We were out of the harbor quickly, and headed out to sea. Captain Jonathon had mentioned that we might be heading for some rough seas and rain in a few days. Unavoidable as we have seven days sailing west to do over 3300 nautical miles to reach Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. Sure hope the storms track in a different direction…..
Dinner for us was in the Pinnacle Grill, a quiet and private celebration. That is until a chocolate cake arrived with a personalized message on the top…Happy Birthday Bill. Our cute waitress even sang to him very softly, as they do not do the song extravaganza that happens in the dining room. Good way to end the day. Oh yeah, even better, we got one hour back on the clocks tonight. There will be more to come over the next seven days….
Bill & Mary Ann
One very nice boat in the harbor
The harbor of Funchal
We are the only cruise ship in port today
The long pier in Funchal
The gangway
Sideways gangway
Wall art in the pier
The first kiosk of treasures
Sign for AIDA ships
HAL insignia
A swirl of white rocks between the grey ones
The tunnel out to the town
Local ferry
Forte de Nossa Senhora al a Conceiceo
The other tunnel leads out of town
Steep cliffs
The Casino sits on top
Local ferry
Madeira flag at Governor's residence
Practicing kayakers
Walking to downtown
One of many sail boats
Amsterdam docked
Marina
Footballer Cristiano Ronaldo
Visiting Canadian naval ships
Wide walkways on the marina
Place to buy tickets for the Hop on Hop off buses
Two different lines for the Ho Ho bus – blue and red
Monument on the plaza
Park along the marina
Fountains in the park
Jacaranda tree blooming
An ice cream café – nice seats
Violet-blue blossoms of the jacaranda
Fog began barreling over the mountain tops
Plaza do Povo
Gardens at the plaza
A fruit vendor
Decorative walkways with plenty of bench seating
Clever monument
Mercado dos Lavrodores up the street
The river connects to the harbor under the street
Lee and Eddie taking pictures
The Telerifico Building (cable car ride)
View of the ship from shore
Beach of rocks
Not-so-comfortable sunbathing
That water has to be cold
Park at the cable car station
Park grounds
Continuing onward
Little harbor near the fort
Forte de Sao Tiago – cannot miss the mustard-colored fort
Very bright
Sunbathers along the fort
Swimmers off the boat launch
3 euro to enter
Located in the heart of Old Town
Restaurante do Forte
A place for catered affairs
Expecting a party today
Another manhole
Sunbathing…..better than the rocks we guess
Walking through Socorro area
A unique cactus/tree
Restaurante do Forte – upscaling dining
The menu
Bouganvilla
Painted doors of the Old Town
Whimsical art
Many shops and cafes
Little Red Riding Hood perhaps?
Door art
Very creative
Tells a story
These eateries will open later
Unusual art
Flamboyant tree
The menu at Banana's
A good place for lunch
Tree blossoms
Local taxi – 60 euro for 4 people for 2 hour city tour
A cross in the park
Many stores along the park
Cable car to Monte
Mostly souvenir shops
