"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report #97 Iraklion, Crete, Greece April 6, 2017 Thursday Partly cloudy & 67 degrees Part #1 Of 3 87 Pictures

The Amsterdam sailed into another new port for us….. Iraklion (Heraklion), Crete, Greece early this morning. The largest island in Greece, Crete is considered the center of Minoan civilization. It has a lush cultural history, which happens to be filled with Greek mythology. Today what we see is a thriving metropolis.

Like Rhodes, this city was surrounded by fortifications that are still standing today. Much larger in area, these ancient walls are difficult to see from the harbor. The outside perimeter was surrounded by a deep ditch, and the construction was completed in the early 17^th century. They were able to resist the Ottoman army for over 20 years in 1648 to 1669. We would see the famous sites while walking the main part of town today.

We docked a little ways away from the city center in a commercial working port. As we were not allowed to walk in the dock area, shuttle buses were needed to take us to the terminal building and the way out to the street…only a five minute ride. Then we had at least a one mile walk to the main street uphill to town. Or you could take a taxi or the hop-on hop-off bus. Or a ship tour, of course. There were 5 tours offered – 3 to 6.25 hours, costing from $50 to $160. Two of them involved a tour of Knossos, the palace and surrounding ruins, a museum stop, and a day on a beach at Ammoudara. There was a drive to the Lassithi Plateau, 3000 feet high to see villages and churches. We stayed right here, as there was so much to see.

A famous landmark is located right in the Venetian Port and shipyard area called Venetian Fortress Koules. Also named Castello del Molo or Rocca a Mare, this fortress was built in 1540 to protect the pier and the port. We would come back here later on the way back to the ship.

So we turned left and followed the yellow arrows to the tourist area of Heraklion. The main road connecting the port with the city center is significant in the history of Heraklion. Today it is lined with historic buildings, churches, some tacky souvenir shops, and upscale boutiques. More than half of the businesses have to be restaurants, bars, and cafes.

We walked by St. Titus Church, the town hall, and the municipal gallery, before arriving to the central Morosini Fountain. It is also called the Lions Fountain, because of the four carved lions that surround it. The square all around this fountain is lined with numerous cafes, most everyone with outdoor seating. It had to be the most crowded area of this street.

One of the streets that go off from the fountain is called 1866 Str., the Market. This is the traditional market with streets and sidewalks made with marble. During the Venetian and Ottoman period, it was the most commercial spot in the city. This same street connected the city center with the Palace of the Duke. As well as souvenir shops, there are clothing and shoe shops near the beginning, with the food markets up higher. We saw some of the healthiest veggies and fruit, and also stands full of fresh fish at the very top.

At the very top was another famous fountain by the name of Bembo Fountain, built in 1554 by a man of the same name. He was the first to bring spring water to the city through an aqueduct.

From here, we turned around and went back downhill. Now we were in search of a good place for lunch. After four days in a row with pizza, we were ready for something different. Simply by accident, we happened to go off of the main drag, and ended up in a park by the name of Parko Theotokapoulou. Lining this mini-park were a few cafes with tables under the trees. Checking menus, we were looking for pizza or calzone or something different. One place at the corner looked good, so we stopped to read the menu. That's when the owner came outside and greeted us. He said there was no pizza on the menu, but he did have quesadillas and fajitas. He stressed that it was not Mexican cuisine, but Greek. Since it was still too early for lunch, we told him we might be back, and we continued on. Figuring we could go tour the fortress on the water, by the time we came back, it would be a better time for lunch.

So that's what we did. Although we did walk all the way out to the fortress on the water, we did not go inside the structure. It was better to take photos of the outside. Besides, there were no photos allowed inside the fortress. There was a small fee (2 euro, or 1 euro for a senior). It was too nice of a day to be inside a dark, damp fortress anyway.

Back on the narrow peninsula, we sat and watched a dredger working in the Old Venetian Harbor. This is where the small boats are moored. By now, it was getting closer to 1pm, and a better time to go for some beers. So we went back uphill, and found our way back to the restaurant, Amalia's Kitchen, the café by the park. What a reception we got. We have been hearing that this is the very beginning of the tourist season, so most everywhere we have been so far in Greece has been over-the-top friendly and welcoming. Today was no exception.

We figured that our waiter was the son of the man we had spoken to earlier. We had just placed our order, when his father came outside the café and welcomed us back with handshakes, no less. It was because of his description of the quesadillas and fajitas that drew us back. Of course, that is what we ordered as well as deep fried onion rings and two ½ liter Mythos beers. First thing we were served was a basket of nacho chips with salsa. When our food was delivered, the wife came outside, asking how we liked it. Of course, it was delicious, and a nice break from our usual pizza. Anyway, she told us they had lived for many years in both New York and Texas, even though they are Greek. She seemed very proud of her varied menu, especially the Tex-Mex items. We have missed our Mexican food since we left home, as it is one of our favorite treats.

We did order desserts of a chocolate/banana empanada, and one apple/raisin empanada, drizzled with honey. Both came with some vanilla ice cream. Along with the dessert, our waiter brought three shot glasses full of a clear local drink, but not ouzo. The three of us toasted and downed the firewater. He was ready to pour a second shot, until we stopped him and said thanks, but we still had to walk a couple of miles back to the ship. One more drink, and we would not move. He said he was not done yet, as after we finished the desserts, he brought out two servings of custard dusted with powdered and cinnamon sugar over a dollop of meringue. Gosh, we will have to roll down the hill. His dad came out to say goodbye to us, shaking hands again. Wow…we shall always remember this port for the most friendly so far.

The only thing we needed as a reminder of our first visit here was a Crete shot glass, which we picked up on the way back at a small souvenir shop.

Once we got down to the main road along the harbor, a wonderful crisp breeze cooled us off, making the one mile hike quite pleasant. We were back to our room by 3pm, after the quick bus ride from the gate. Once again, we passed through the xray, then had the chance to stop at their duty free shop, where you could have bought wine or liquor before getting on the ship. Even though there was no xray set up on the ship, there was someone at the small table collecting bottles, or not. One lady was packing a bottle of wine, and was asked if she had been on a wine tour. If so, she was allowed one bottle with no corkage fee. The crew member did take her room number anyway, but let her keep the bottle. If she had said no, she was not on a tour, she may have had to pay an $18. corkage fee.

Somewhere around 5:30pm, the Amsterdam left the port and sailed into the Cretan Sea, heading in a northerly direction to the island of Mykonos, another new port for us. Once again, there was no sail away party at the aft pool deck. It was held in the Crow's Nest between 4:30 to 5:30pm. Now if everyone on the ship had wanted to participate at this venue, where would they fit them all? We recalled that in the recent past, these sail away parties were so much fun, especially when we had the live band playing Anchors Aweigh as the ship pulled away from the pier. People danced, enjoying the appetizers and drinks….a real party atmosphere. Boy that sure hit the dust, as it has successfully been killed lately.

We had company for dinner….a new friend of Martin's, who was a younger Canadian lady named Carole. Although we never met, we have seen her frequently as she is a good walker like us. We all welcomed her, and she fit it like she had known all of us forever. Some people are nice like that. Of course, we invited her to come back anytime.

Well, one more port Greek port tomorrow and the last one…..Mykonos. Hope the tiny island lives up to the reputation we have heard about for many years.

Bill & Mary Ann

Coming into the port of Heraklion on the island of Crete